So I took my car for MOT just over a month ago as it run out when I was working abroad, and it failed on a few little bits:
Front NS Caliper binding
Handbrake not working
Fuel cap incorrect type
Track rod end OS movement

Finished the repairs yesterday, two new handbrake cables, new front calliper, new fuel cap and new track rod & end and took the car back to the MOT station today for my expensive retest (As I took so long getting round to fixing it)!

10 minutes in the guy comes out and says 'come and look at this' to proceed to tell me the front subframe is rotten, and the rear isn't far behind. Looks like it could possibly be welded, but he thinks it might be too weak.

Angry isn't the word as the tester (another guy) didn't mention anything about it. So I still don't have a car!

Can't seem to find any information in RAVE about sub frame replacement, as to how straightforward it may or may not be. Have seen a few on eBay which I guess are the right part (read in another thread they're all the same?)

Any pointers as to what might be the best thing to do?

P.S Driving the car off a cliff isn't the right answer, my insurance excess is too high

Ta in advance! 

There is a thread on this http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic31438....=sub+frame

A search on the forum may reveal some more. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

eBay for a sub frame, then some blasting and powder coating,

then a competent indy to swap it over. By all accounts its not too big a job There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Thanks Weegie that is the thread I came accross!

Northern - that's my plan pick one up off eBay and refurbish it, when you say the indy I guess it's not something I can do myself? 

I suppose it depends on how much kit you have and how much spannering you have done. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Sounds like a no, but everything I've done on my car so far I've done myself.

I'll give it a go... Whats the worst that can happen? The heads snap off the bolts :@ 

My TD6 had this replaced as a condition of me buying it. When I went to see it, it was on a 4 post ramp with the engine and gearbox supported whilst the swap was made.... 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Not sure it's one to do on the drive tbh, lots of stuff Has to be unbolted from it, engine, upper arms, lower arms, steering rack, body and some pipe work.

If you have a ramp or axle stands on a concrete surface then it may be achievable but it's going to be a maul. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Just managed to get some pictures of the worst bit that concerned the MOT tester

Not 100% as I've never done any welding myself, but surely it could be cleaned up and a plate welded over this?

Well, yes, you "could" weld a plate over those bits but given the structural nature of it you would want to know about the rest of it. The question is more about how much of the rest is about to rust through.

Yes it's a pain to change but for safety reasons that's what I would be doing. Just my 2p.

In terms of a DIY change, you would be wanting a set of axle stands, a couple of trolley jacks, one of those engine support bars which goes across the inner wings and a really good set of spanners and sockets. It's doable, but would take a wee while. If you need to buy a load of tools (a lot of which you might never use again) you need to weigh that up against paying a garage to do it. Personally I would do it myself but I do have most of the required tools already.

Good luck with it.

I see what you're saying, i'd rather replace it eventually. It seems it's the only rusty bit on the subframe, almost as if someone has used it to jack up on in the past and perforated the paint, letting water in to cause rust!  

I'm with mzplcg. The problem is you will never be sure of the structural integrity and there is a lot of weight be in carried on the subframe.

Rust also tends to creep and you cannot be sure, as he says, how much it has spread.

A bit of a ball-acher but, at the end of the day you will have the satisfaction of knowing that it has been done properly and good for a long time to come.

As they say over here "bon courage" John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

can the inner wing rain channels really support the weight of the TD6/4.4 engine? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Sure they can as long as it's the correct tool and not just a bit of 2x4 lashed over the wing tops. Shove a jack under the bellhousing for good measure. That's how i did the front crossmember on my old XR4x4.

This approach is tempting (not)



Doesn't actually show the engine lift/support  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999