Hi all, I managed to buy a pair of used but not too tatty DSS’s off eBay this week for a bargain price.
The idea is to refurb these, replace the current ones, then refurb those as spares.

I already have some “TANK” smooth truck bed 2-pack epoxy paint, so will prime with acid etch then the top coats, but I’d like some advice on prep, please:

(A) How to remove (ideally) or should I just mask, the silver trim?

(B) Best method of existing paint removal, without damaging the aluminium?
i.e. mechanical, sanding/wire brushing, or chemical?
(Concerned about chemicals spoiling the silver trim if left on)

The original paint is pretty hard stuff, any idea what it is, or how to most easily get back to bare metal?

During Covid, I resprayed 2 pairs of big solid aluminium extrusions on my QUAD 2905 speakers in rattle-can satin black, with a ridiculous amount of OCD rubbing down and about 7 coats of etch/primer/colour, and they came out amazingly smooth & blemish-free, so I thought I’d have a go at these, but this paint is much tougher stuff?

I’ve found the biggest caveats to home garage spraying are: (a) finding wind-free/dust free days to spray, and overspray getting everywhere, so I might just do the prep myself and get the spraying done for me locally. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

***BUMP!***

Anyone?

What about water blasting with suitable media? Maybe not grit for aluminium?  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

I think you can get aftermarket boards that replace the oem ones, might work out cheaper and certainly easier than all the prep and paint work.

Sandblasting will be fine on the aluminium, the biggest problem is the existing coating - if its rubbery or soft sandblasting just bounces off unless you put some real power behind it. Finding a way to remove the trim and getting them dipped might be the easiest option to strip them back.

Thanks Ryan, I have a second set already so am committed to the refurb route.
I just got a new 2500psi jetwasher, so may try wet blasting. Original paint looks like epoxy, there seems to be no primer whatsoever, it’s bubbling from underneath due to abrasion.
Judging by lack of replies, looks like I’ll have to be the guinea pig in this case, so will document and photograph & write up on here when I do it. This must be a very common problem. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Pretty sure the original finish will be powder coating, and cheaply done as well, no prebake or undercoat I suspect...

If your jetwasher won't work, take them to a sandblaster, they will know the medium required to remove the finish and it doesn't cost much...

Keep us posted, mine are a bit tatty underneath...  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Well the wet blasting attachment is £20 on Amazon, plus £13.50 for 75kg of kiln dried sand, plus a few precautionary items of PPE, plus I get to play with my new toy, may as well give it a go!

I’d really like to get that brushed silver trim off rather than mask it, but at the same time, I don’t want to b*gger it. I wonder if its glued on? I have a little hot air gun, but the whole thing is a giant heatsink?  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

I’ve removed the stainless trim from L405 steps before, it was a few years ago now but as I recall it does lever out once you remove the two end fittings.

I don’t think there was any glue holding it but I can’t be 100% on that. Jonathan

2007 Defender 90 XS Hardtop

Thanks Jonathan, that’s useful information.  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?