Driving around roundabout I hear a ping type noise from front pass side , then get hill descent / air susp /abs faults. Car drove fine for about half a mile until I found a good place to pull over and plug in diagnostic reader as we Range Rover drivers do . Fault was front left wheel sensor plausible which reset ok . Then tried to pull away and it seems abs system has a mind of its own as the brakes where coming on by themselves and traction light flashing now and then . My thoughts are obviously the wheel sensor , but no faults are standing . Anyone have any thoughts or similar experiences please .

I had a similar sensor error on the day of my mot which I put down to the wheels left hanging in the air or driving through a big puddle. I had HDC, EAS , ABS inactive on the dash and the car put its brakes on when I tried to pull away. I took off the ABS sensors and cleaned them , they are britpart, and just kept clearing the faults and eventually it stayed clear . It kept slamming the breaks on every time I reversed off my drive. The only other thing I did was tightening the transfer box main electrical connector.

Last edited by holidaychicken on 19th Mar 2017 10:15pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks for reply , I am in the process of replacing discs and pads so will have a look at sensors and replace the one that flagged the fault , I replaced one years ago in a td5 I had and remember I had to drive for a short distance to reset. Hopefully it will be just sensor . Range Rover ownership is an adventure !!

Certainly an 'adventure' !
if you have never had your sensors out before then you may need to prepare for a fight as the bore where they sit rusts and traps the sensor and i had to drill mine out, clean the bore with a dremel and sanding drum and then greased and fitted the new ones.

Last edited by holidaychicken on 20th Mar 2017 6:37pm. Edited 1 time in total

Yes I've had this I thought I had been clamped! Its a wet weather thing and a guess which side sensor is causing it!

the first thing I noticed is when i went through a big puddle and i got the bong of death and i think the first thing to come up was EAS inactive but nothing happened. it was only when i got home and parked up and then tried to move it i got everything light up and the brakes jammed on, i thought the wheel was coming off !!

Seems like everything is a fight , had to grind heads off caliper carrier to hub bolts yesterday , happy days

one of the things I have learned is that when i tried a torx bit, allen key or even a standard socket is to try the next size up , or down in the case of a socket and try tapping it in place as when the bolts get rusty they appear to be a different size, especially the torx type.

Well , all caliper bolts had to be ground out. RHS caliper overhauled , disc and pads fitted , bled and wheel back on . Then onto the LHS abs sensor , drilled out with not to much effort only to find the problem is the reluctor ring is static in the hub. So new cv joint on order , removed the ball joint from hub whist hub in garage . Advice to anyone needing to remove outer cv joint " remove the complete driveshaft and stick it in a vice"

What did you use to pop the inner CV joint out of the diff, just a pry bar ?
I took my outer cv joint off of the drive shaft while still fitted in the car and what fun that was.
I cut he cv boot off out of the way, cleaned out the grease and then got a little pick tool and popped up the little retaining circlip while holding the joint in line with the driveshaft and a quick tap with a hammer and off they came. It only took me about 3 hours to learn that though...

Yes , small pry bar , It came out no probs . I didn't see a retaining clip on the outer joint , I thought it was an internal snap ring . It's in bits in the garage so will have another look

Actually i may be talking sh!te, i watched so many videos on how to remove the outer joint i think I am recalling one of those. I had a look back through my photos and found the attached. I did line up the joint so it was straight in line with the shaft and then tapped the inner race. I hammered and hammered and bent my special tool I had made trying to get it off but as soon as I put it in line and hit the inner race shown it just popped off.
You can see on the driveshaft where the internal snap ring locates.

Did you lose the diff oil when you removed the inner joint?

Click image to enlarge

No oil loss , the diff filler plug is at the same level as bottom of driveshaft

Cool, that definitely sounds easier than trying to take of the outer CV joint with it attached to the car.