Hi, the main reason for keeping the old headunit for me was to control the DSP, the bm54 is retained to keep the DSP awake via the I-bus, the bm54 also provides the video for the old headunit, the bm54 audio output is no longer used, I went for the Android touchscreen, it does the lot, phone, dvd, satnav, mp3, cameras, internet, all controlled via the original steering wheel controls, provided you buy the BMW based headunit. the main reason to keep the DSP Is beacause it contains the relevant crossovers/outputs to all the individual speaker drivers in the car, plus the amp/power for the sub in the load area. you can wire a head unit without the dsp, but it is a massive/expensive and time consuming job, plus you lose the sub output, so you need a further amp then. i ripped out the now defunct parrot from mine. the headunit does it all via bluetooth seamlessly. it really wasn't too tricky putting the old head in glovebox. kinda fits nice. you never need to touch it in there, just leave it on and forget it. you still have all the other features available too, clock, consumption, etc..

That sounds like the way l want to go, because l can still see and reset my average mpgs etc. How did you integrate the android into the original loom? Was it using the parrott loom and using the android as a sort of aux input? There is a new bmw flat one out too now the e of bay which is android 6 for under 300.
Thanks

Right there are 2 ways of doing a DSP install, you can get one of those units that will work with DSP and wire it to the boot... however if you're prepared to take a gamble, it should be possible to get the same result by replacing the CD changer with an emulator (aux adaptor) that has phono input, like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-3-5-7-Series...SwgmJX0qm9

You can then connect the new head unit via phono, and run the old system as if your playing a CD....

there are a few things to consider though, unless you have an early system the chances are the CD changer will have a 10 pin connection, so you'll need to convert to 6 / 3 pin. And you need to tap into the ibus and run power connections to the new head.. not difficult, everything is there in the glovebox, except the aerial, that has to come from the rear, or you'll need to add another one..

and lastly you'll have to adjust the audio (L/R, F/R balance) on the old head in the glovebox, pain? possibly, but a small price for plug and play without the need to rewire the boot, and could make install time to a day....

But This does rely on the old system working properly, with the exception of the CD changer.. and still leaves you open to water damage destroying the system in the boot... which is an all too common with the ffrr  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Firstly pain... nah pain is having to listen to eurythmics greatest hits and disneys moana over and over again lol. So basically you just use rcas left and right out of the head unit. And this is the same stereo input as the cd changer supplies. Running power to the head unit would not be an issue and getting an aerial extension to the boot also not an issue and in reality you will have an extra rca sub out to run an extra amp and decent sub in the boot. I would also be able to remove cd sat nav and phone krap to make a bit more room in the boot. But the ibus is the only part l am wondering about? Is that so you do not have to keep turning the head unot on in the glovebox?

ibus is the digital interface that a lot of the systems in the car run on, if you don't connect the ibus then you'll not get steering wheel functions... but that is about it. As no one has done this it is an unknown as to what the steering wheel controls will do.. I was going to do this, but, my DSP amp drowned in the well and that fubar'd all plans for a quick install, so I had the remove it all and do a rewire in the boot...

I will say that doing the boot rewire isn't difficult, and you have the added bonus of removing all delicate aquaphobic parts from the well of wheel, sometimes known as the fountain of death or the lake of doom..... if you've got an old tailgate seal you'll know what I'm on about

As for subs, I had every intention of wiring one in to the new system, but when I stripped out the old system I discovered that the sub wasn't plugged in at all... so I didn't bother, and I didn't miss what I'd never had But I did run an extension lead from the sub rca to the boot just incase I changed my mind.... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

You see that is my other option. All the wires are in the boot for all the speakers. If l use 2 3 way crossovers for the front, 2 2way crossovers for tje rear and use a 4 channel amp l can run all speakers bar the front dash speaker. Then l can strip the boot and fit a seperate sub and amp there but is just so much work compared to plug and play. Will jave to get a few more splinters scratching my head whilst l make a decision lol

Right I get the crossover networks, although not totally necessary, but I don't understand where your getting the 4 channel amp from and why you feel it's necessary when the head unit has a built in 180 watt amp on board...

If the L/R system is all working OK as far as sound goes, then trying the replace the CD changer with an AUX input would be the easiest option for you.. worst case it doesn't do exactly what you want and you have to rip the factory system out.. however there is a 99% chance that it will all work fine.... If you want to go this way then drop me a line as I have a connects2 aux interface that I'm willing to part with.

If any of your factory sound system is playing up or suspect then I'd suggest that you go the whole 9 yards and do a complete install, you do not need an additional amp for the head unit, only for the sub. And there could be the need for a different wiring to the guide that Pete posted if you want to hang on to the original screen for trip computer etc. but it's not rocket science and there is more than one way to get a live feed to the head!! Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Oh I also forgot that you don't need the extension lead either, if your prepared to make your own loom, as all the connectors that you need come with the head unit  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

bobsin wrote:

In the process of fitting an android head unit, does everything, android lolipop, loads of inputs, dvd, nav, cameras, tv, phone option via bluetooth awesome. running with the DSP Amp, sounds very special. 0ld head unit in glovebox in place of removed cd changer, to keep all other controls, and control dsp. i recommend EONON GA6201 for BMW based audio.. Great fit in dash as it has a flat front panel. looks factory... 2004 Vogue.. (ignore the now redundant philips mp3 player) Canbus works perfect with all steering wheel controls, you can even customise the button operation.

2006 + is ford / jag electrics different can of worms

Ah. OK, thank you.

Are there any options along these lines for the Ford/Jag 2006 RR headunit replacements?

I did a bit of a search of the forum, but maybe I missed something.

bobsin's setup sounds like the direction I would like to go... anyone know if this setup works with just eonon headunits? i'd like to use CarPlay and dynavin have a dongle allowing this..

has anyone else tried bobsin's setup with other units such ad the dynavin or brash?

@bobsin, is it possible for you to discribe your setup with more detail?

As above , which patch lead etc ?? Poss make it a wiki if you have time ??
Simon