I'm having fun doing some work on a Freelander 1 and the time has come to buy some parts

Click image to enlarge

Well, I have used Britpart for some stuff. It can be OK but the bits you're talking about they don't make themselves.

For crank seals I would always go genuine, or to gasket companies like Payen. Genuine you can probably get the one seal, gaskets tend to come in sets.

General rule of thumb. If it's a week's work to change get the best quality. Easier stuff you can take a gamble with the cheaper items.

Bearmach have a 3 year warranty on their own brand parts.

I have ordered quite a few of their own brand range of late, for my own cars, just to gauge quality compared to other suppliers

Though for something such as a rear crank seal, id still suggest OEM. Same quality as genuine parts, without the LR tax

A lot of engine and some other bits you can just get from BMW as long as you got a td4 and didn't get a k series...

As for other bits I would try and get part numbers and just google them and chuck them in eBay as sometimes you can find new old stock of stuff for an older vehicle and Dave yourself a ton. And still be genuine as well... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

^^ That is looking rather petroleum powered

If genuine prices are too high for oil seals have you been able to extract the original, and can you read the part number? If so then a bearing supplier might be worth a call... at least you'd get a quality item

Fiy have you given Duckworths Dan a pm? he does some wonderful things with LR prices.. nearer to aftermarket prices than you'd think  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

No, she's a TD4

I had a 1.8 petrol last year - it was OK once I'd fettled it

Anyway, took the IRD and box off this morning and the rear seal is perfect - so I'm going to leave it well alone.

So I'm going to use genuine parts for the "difficult to get to" bits or safety critical parts, then Bearmach or OEM for the rest. I think that sounds the most sensible approach. The car isn't worth much, so no point chucking loads of cash at it with all genuine parts. I just don't want to be dropping the engine and box again any time soon

Rule of thumb if it rotates or seals then avoid Britpart. Based on previous experience even their bolts don't come straight... Ed

Try advanced factors for a comparison, site sponsor on here.
he stocks bearmach and hella, good prices too.

Also try BMW... I brought some M7 nuts for the inlet manifold, they worked out about 18% of the LR price  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!