Hi all

First off Merry Christmas to all the members!

So I've been very kindly given some money from family to put towards a Dual Action machine polisher that I've been after for so long. Question is what manchine do other people use?

I have been looking at the DAS-6 Pro for quite awhile http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-ma...d_673.html but before I bite the bullet and place my other I thought I would gave other people's opinions. I want a machine that can take normal pads and spot pads.

Let the suggestions begin...

Matt Current
2012 Range Rover 5.0L SC Ultimate Edition
2012 Range Rover 4.4L TDV8 Autobiography
2010 Range Rover 3.6L TDV8 Autobiography
2003 Range Rover 4.4L V8 Bespoke Vehicle

Inventor of the retro fit paddle shift and many other modifications.
Creator of the custom 2010+ RR MK4 splash screen.
Creator of the Range Rover CarPC and lots more!

Founder of Range Rover Owner
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Bought the full shebang from polished bliss a few years back. appropriate cutting compounds for our cars paint as well. Have a gander on their site, positive I had a thread on it ages ago mate, just search detailing. The key is to use the least harsh compound first as you can't put layers back ( not without a re spray anyway). Oh and merry Christmas!

You can't go wrong with that.

I was in the same position and having read all sorts of advice, I decided to give them a call.

Basically they said that the Dual Action is ideal for a beginner because you'd have to work really, really hard to cause any damage to paint. It's light, reliable and comes with a spare set of bushes.

When I ordered, it was intended for using on Merc paintwork which is a hard, ceramic type coating and they advised which compound and pads.

I'd give them a call about pad and machine choice because they are very helpful helpful.

are you referring to the machine i linked to? or polished bliss?

Matt Current
2012 Range Rover 5.0L SC Ultimate Edition
2012 Range Rover 4.4L TDV8 Autobiography
2010 Range Rover 3.6L TDV8 Autobiography
2003 Range Rover 4.4L V8 Bespoke Vehicle

Inventor of the retro fit paddle shift and many other modifications.
Creator of the custom 2010+ RR MK4 splash screen.
Creator of the Range Rover CarPC and lots more!

Founder of Range Rover Owner
rangeroverowner.com | Facebook.com/RangeRoverOwner | Latest Videos ➞ YouTube.com/RangeRoverOwner

Plenty of folks don't agree with me but I have had both a DA and a rotary. Personal experience says the rotary is far less like hard work and doesn't make your hands tingle. As long as you have some common sense you will not do damage.

3m do some cushioned backing plates to help keep the pressure even which reduces risk even more. Use of soft pads (meguiars, Menzerna etc) further reduces risk but you will get the job done in a quarter of the time. A FFRR feels the size of a Routemaster bus as it is, you don't need a slow machine hindering you even more.

I use the Makita but silverline do some decent machines for a lot less money. As long as the brushes are replaceable the thing should last forever.

Just my 2p, and plenty don't agree with me, but only people who have used a rotary machine can give experienced advice on one and they are not the paint removing grinders that some folks would have you believe.

mattstevenson2005 wrote:

are you referring to the machine i linked to? or polished bliss?

Matt

The machine & CYC, the company.

I would also like to start with a similar polisher to the DAS6 pro plus. They are a ridiculous price in oz. If I was confident I would go with a rotary polisher. But a 850w dual action/random polisher will be a step up from hand polishing. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

This isn't silly money. Get some soft pads and you could use it on your face TBH. It has variable speed so nice and slow to start off whilst you get confident with it.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SILVERLINE-1200...SwEK9T2ijA

Thanks. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

I have an old Porter Cable DA and a Makita Rotary.
For a beginner I would suggest the DA as it is much more forgiving even though it will take longer to get the same result as a rotary.
a suggestion as well is to get a scrap front wing or bonnet to practice on, reason behind this is firstly you can see the difference different pads and compounds make also the biggest mistake everyone makes is to shortcut the final refining stage which can result in the very very fine swirls and compounding marks becoming holograms which marr the final finish.
The other benefit of using a scrap panel first is also you can basically be as rough as you like and see just how rough you have to be to actually cause damage, people get sucked into the horror stories and think they can destroy the paint easier than they actually can.
Check your work from multiple angles and with a good light source, it's amazing what light from the right angle can hide.
For example this looks very shiny

But that was a careful angle which actually hid this







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^ Top advice.