on 4.2sc mine have a little play and will need replacing soon, any tips and are they a biatch to do,

Cheers Nick

A real butch

Oh great, thanks

Need to remove the complete hub assembly by removing top rose bush and bottom bush bolts and driveshaft. A press is required to change the bearing. Whilst off you are best changing top rose and bottom bushes as they are not expensive. Mark the top bolt as it is eccentric and has to go in exactly as it comes out for the wheel alignment. Driveshaft can be a real swine to remove, sometimes easier removing from the diff end or use an air chisel with blunt tool to press out

Garage job  Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Garage job if you're not confident. I only discovered a knackered wheel bearing by chance when changing the rose and bottom bushes. Unfortunately I don't own a hydraulic press so I just stripped the hub off and took it to my MOT man who pressed out the old bearing and pressed in the new one. Bearings are not expensive from LR, around the £26 mark

Sorry to bump a thread from the dead

But would some form of 3 pronged push be able to shift the driveshaft out of the hub, like a wind in one?

Like this maybe??

http://www.off-road.com/images/content/8-T...-16-15.jpg FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

My driveshaft was stuck solid in the hub, it wouldn't budge and I ended up removing the entire shaft with the hub assembly as an entire unit and taking it to my local mechanic who did a lot of cursing and swearing before it eventually parted.

I'm guessing it was a good chance to change the diff oil then? Was a new seal needed for the end of the shaft at the diff end? FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

No

Ooo that's interesting I would have expected it to dribble it some. May as well do it while I'm under it though considering the cost of the fluid isn't much I suppose.

Strange how I've become even more fussy and a simple job turns into more and more bits being done lol FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.