The EAS has occasionally problems with suspension height front right and drops the car on its bump stops. No leaks detected. Sensor input are fluctuating or showing out of range. 4x4 display shows wheel fully dropped or jumping up and down even when car is stationary on a flat surface...
Sensor has been replaced but no real difference. Replacement connector and a new ECU arrived today.

I would like to move the vehicle to a warm garage at work. It is minus 15 deg. Celsius outside and too cold for doing any repairs and too cold to get stranded on the road side.

- To avoid EAS dropping the car on its pump stops I would like to disable the EAS. What is the best method? Fuses, relays or iiDtool?
- Anyone experienced similar problems?

If you have an IId tool it's easy, not sure where it is in your menu but it will be there.... Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
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I experienced manually operating the suspension it on my p38 .
Lots of times .

Lots and lots of times .

Too many times !!!


I used to jumper out 2 sets of pins on the Ecu plug under the drivers seat iirc .

One set to turn the compressor on , then another pair to lift different corners .

Then a jumper left in to disable the dash lights etc .

Not sure if it's the same on the newer car , but suspect there will be a similar way to do it .

Edit:
If you can look at wiring diagrams and see if the same Ecu pins do the same thing on a p38 and an l332 , I will dig out my notes and tell you which ones to jumper .
I don't want to be held responsible for telling you which to use as I don't have time to verify they're the same on a later car ....

Last edited by Ian c2 on 8th Jan 2016 1:06am. Edited 2 times in total

I just thought ...

In the end I got sick of dealing with it so fitted arnott coil springs .
They also sold a plug to disable .

Might be worth looking on their website

Open a door ? (not the boot) and switch off the lights. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

That would be an interesting drive to the workshop !!

There will be a 20A suspension system fuse in the main fuse panel. Remove it whilst the vehicle is up. The fuse is required to operate the FETs (electronic switches) that operate the corner and exhaust pilot valves which when removed prevents lowering.

The replacement ecu will need calibrating.

Haylands wrote:

If you have an IId tool it's easy, not sure where it is in your menu but it will be there....

Service/Test > Suspension > Build Mode  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Doh! didn't read the bit about workshop at "work".  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks! I'll try the IIDTool. If I had stumbled over the Build mode setting I would not have guessed it could be used on road. Knowing what to look for I found this: https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/faq-items/h...uspension/
Will not drive 60km with open door...

Ian c2 wrote:

If you can look at wiring diagrams and see if the same Ecu pins do the same thing on a p38 and an l332 , I will dig out my notes and tell you which ones to jumper .

I don't want to go into it too much Graeme especially now he's got it sorted , and especially as I've not looked at it in detail .

But the Ecu and inputs to it are irrelevant if it still outputs a volt signal to operate the system .

Eg . A signal to turn on the compressor , or a signal to open a valve to send air to one corner .

It's the voltage signals out that you manipulate with jumpers , so it doesn't really matter what the signals in are are you are bypassing them .

A bit like unplugging the wires from a headlight and applying 12v direct to the bulb that bulb will light up no matter how the original switch to turn it on is designed , be it auto lamps , a switch on the dash , or remote control ...

Yes, still 12V for the valves and 5V for the height sensors but I was drawing attention to the totally different set of connectors and pins, that's all.

I second the suggestion to drive with the tail gate open or on the latch . The vehicle doesn't change height if any of the doors are open or on the latch. V8 or else ...

Build Mode seems to do the trick. Thanks! EAS isn't bothered by erratic input from height sensor anymore and I have lifted the front using IIDTool controls. One thing though. I would have liked to open the cross link valves for a moment to balance out the pressure from side to side.