Hi guys - a few people have recommended this to me an now my cooking seems to be running a bit better I bought the kit from Sebastian on eBay. He accidentally sent me a 75 star not 80 - is this a big issue?

Next up I've searched the forum but couldn't really find a guide and the instructions are a little vague. The guides I have seen on other sites are not very detailed either and could really do with a before and after pic of what needs cutting. Finally and I guess more importantly the instructuctions that came with it don't mention epoxying anything however a few websites do - is this necessary?

Thanks

Dan

Pretty obvious when you take it apart, remove the internal fixings for the old stat until the new one fits, can't really go wrong.... nothing needs glueing and make sure you remove and leave disconnected the wiring from the old stat....

There is an outside chance that the engine would never reach it's closed loop state if it runs cool but I don't think for a minute it will be an issue, I ran without a stat for months with no issues....

If you want to change it these are the part numbers you need....

Carlostat by Vernet TH5973.80J 80°C

SWAG of FEBI 30918294 75°C

MEILE 028 287 0007 87°C

 Pete
__________________________________________________
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2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
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Thanks Pete - the other forum mentioned have to cut a notch for the bleed valve is that not necessary? If it's just the two notches holding the star in I'll dremel it and do it tomorrow lunchtime while the car is off the road awaiting the cluster to be fixed! Cheers

I assume you're talking of the M62 engine, not M60.

I put one of Sebastian's kits in a few months back but with the 88 deg C thermostat. It's winter here with daily temps about 18 deg C and the engine only gets up to the early 90s. I'll have a better idea today as I have to drive into the city (60km) on a mix of motorway and city traffic.

You may have trouble removing the thermostat heater plug. Mine was corroded in as coolant had leaked past the O-ring on the thermostat connector and up into the plug. When I finally got it out, the pins were broken. That's not a big issue as I wasn't going be using it again. However, what had to be addressed was the leakage.

I eventually managed to get the connector out of the thermostat and cleaned it and the recess up as best I could but it was a little corroded. I also needed a new O-ring under the connector.

After cutting off the old thermostat tower, I cleaned out the link between the old thermostat and the heater connector and filled it with epoxy to minimise any chance of coolant getting through to the connector socket. Then I put sealant on the connector fitting and reassembled it (I needed a vice to compress the O-ring to slide the locking clip back in. I plugged the lead back in just so it wouldn't be floating around the engine.

There was some corrosion around the thermostat housing on the block and it may need replacing in the future.

Would I do the mod again? Probably not. I think the better option might be to fit the thermostat housing that doesn't have the heater socket as shown in this thread: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic13318.html Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Last edited by p38arover on 11th Jul 2016 1:15pm. Edited 1 time in total

Think you were unlucky or the engine hasn't had the correct coolant mix and hence corrosion.... mine was no bother at all, not leaking and I left the electrical bit intact apart from cutting off inside what was needed... no leaks as yet...

Didn't cut any notches for a bleed valve as the stat I had didn't have one... I run an 80 and mine runs in the low 90's which is where it ran with no stat so I don't think it will every get cooler than that...

p38arover, I know what your saying about the full replacement but have you seen the price....  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Yes, Pete, the price is a bit scarey!

Just an update: my pics.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PPZGA4wN...1050-rw-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_dR0cDju...1050-rw-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DIeD3rJ_...1050-rw-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SCC9Hi7B...1050-rw-no

The plug that goes into the thermostat. AS you can see, badly corroded from coolant leakage pas the connector in the thermostat.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CLaCUH-L...1050-rw-no

The thermostat connector.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dq2nKCkv...1050-rw-no

The side of the thermostat socket that's inside the thermostat. There should be wires from this to the heater element.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AbGpujl8...1050-rw-no Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Last edited by p38arover on 19th Jul 2023 5:46am. Edited 6 times in total

Right guys - just fitted this this lunchtime - i sawed the turrets off then dremeled them smooth. put it all back together and saw it said i needed to use the allen bolt but i didn't i had used all four normal bolts - is this ok? i started up and bled it leaked a tiny bit so i tightened the bolts another half turn. haven't started again since as i don't want to bleed properly until cluster is back...

The normal bolts are a bit short aren't they..?? You may strip the threads out of the alloy if they aren't long enough... That's why they give you longer ones in the kit... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Sorry Pete - terrible description - the 'normal' bolts were the standard long bolts in the kit not the hex head one. Is it normal not to use the hex head one as apparently you're meant to? And how tight should the be paranoid I've rung them - if it leake a drip like it did would you tighten them all 1/4 turn?

Don't really understand what you mean, you should use for new longer bolts, the heads are irrelevant but I believe they put a hex head one in for the lower back as it's supposed to be easier to get a hex socket in there... doesn't matter what you have as long as they are new long ones... you should tighten them to 7 Ibf.ft or 10nm if you use the gaskets in the kit then they should be used dry with no sealant on them, had mine on and off several times and never had a problem with leaking, did you use the roll pins to hold the three bit's together...?? Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

It was pre sandwiched together - I only used one gasket as the instructions Said I only needed to as the oring did the job the other side...

Hi Chaps - ok firstly - leak solved was being a bit of a wuss on the bolts

Next it is an 80 stat they have just swapped suppliers to feb so i assumed it was a 75 ...

finally my experience...

Secret menu - thrashed it hard for about 6 miles and it was reading 94-95 degrees... then sat in traffic and it went as high as 99 - is that normal? doesn't seem much change for the work?

Finally when it was hot near the end of the drive i had the kick down down and was flat out in every gear - i then got to 6k in 4th and it seemed stuck. i let up a little and then foot back down and i heard a belt squeal and it felt like something slipping??? any ideas/ it then went into 5th no issues... this happened twice ... finally i manually went through all gears after this and all went in smooth - any ideas?

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Mine runs in the low 90's normally, I don't have a viscous fan, I have set the electric ones to come in at 99, much lower than the 125 it used to get to before...

Sounds like your drive belt needs tightening, they have to be pretty tight to not squeal... or if it looks shiny on the ribbed side or there is any splitting then best to change it with a genuine one, the pattern ones don't sit well and are noisy...

Never had mine anywhere near 6k in 4th so can't help... maybe a bit of vehicle sympathy wouldn't go amiss....

Maybe, because 5th is an overdrive, it gets to top speed in 4th...???? Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I've just fitted the thermostat kit this afternoon along with a new water pump, radiator, shroud and belts will report back if there are any issues

Whilst putting the viscous fan back on I noticed it wasn't spinning that freely much stiffer than iam sure it did before and seemed to stay on perhaps this is a sign it needs replaced?

Lpg seemed to take longer before it kicked in from petrol don't know if Ill need that adjusted too if its working at a lower temperature.

Hi Guys,

So today I had a more sensible / standard drive on the way to work 50/50 traffic / 70mph driving. Whilst driving it sat nicely about 94 - would you expect that?

What's a little more concerning is when I sat in a queue of traffic for no more than 5 mins it got up to 101degrees - would you expect that?

also - a little more related to my other thread so will post on that - gearbox doesn't seem to be going into overheat mode so far but after sitting around it does get a bit more clunky so like its still not cooling right - so Pete - would you go for oil cooler next?