Hello All, Trust well. Have a very serious problem starting today over locking. I cannot get into my car. Have a 2004 TD6 140000mls, good condition except the transfere box started to "ding" saying in neutral the past few weeks. This morning the alarm started sounding on and off for a while, about an hour or so and then, I couldn't open the car. Have been trying up to now to do so! Have noticed the red light has stopped flashing on the rear view mirror inside. I am sure the battery is ok, green light on last week. Have tried to unlock using the key but to no avail, just turns in the lock. Have read the Handbook and believe it is an immobilisor problem. Any ideas how to get in and start it in order to get it recovered to a dealer? Thank you for your time.

Flat battery. Range Rover quotes.....

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Walk away for an hour and have a cup of coffee... Let the car go back to sleep, as you may have confused it pressing buttons out of frustration too many times (like my wife does)

If no dice, you may need to get some volts back in to your battery Do you have a tow bar? Could hook a charger up through that

Thanks for reply. Can I charge from underneath the veh as cn't get the bonnet open?

Do you have AA cover or alike?

Believe my insurance comes with cover will have to see., thanks. Still tempted to attach the neg lead to the bodywork and look to find the starter motor or anything with a positive terminal. Does the alternator have one?

Also, believe it is the battery as everytime I started up in the morning the "ding" started for the transfere box.

If you know what your doing then yes... You can easily charge the car from underneath BUT!!! Be safe doing so (jacking protecting yourself against the EAS lowering etc etc)

Sometimes its best left to the breakdown companies

Ok, thanks for that, good advice.

Edit. Just read your post again. Physical key not working.

Sounds like a duff lock, AND a flat battery.
Underneath look for the red lead from battery. On the starter solenoid....clip your red charger lead there and leave overnight. Black lead to anything earth, ie subframe....
Try the remote in the morning.

Others in the past have prised a side repeater indicator out and connected a battery charger to the two wires supplying it.
Don't know why it works but it seem to .
When you do get into your car you need to get the manual locking function sorted as a matter of extreme urgency.
If you don't have a tow bar fitted it's worth considering fitting a cable connected to your battery terminated in a concealed location known only to you for the next time you can't get in.

You are not going to believe what happened. The recovery attended and for the sake of not giving too much away managed to lift the bonnet. He then put the charger on and using the remote control only managed to open the rear two doors. We then got inside and clambered over to the front seats. On putting the key in the ignition every conceivable light and alarm came on with the suspension showing the middle light. We then tuned the engine over and it started after a short while and keeping it running for five mins then switching off. On the second crank, it just died so we had to put the charger on again to fire it up. When running he said to keep it going and to drive it for an hour but the front doors and their windows still didn't open! The transfere box was also "dinging" but I was now becoming deaf, what did you say? Then I set the time and date but at that point noticed a distinct deep whirring from the centre console which wasn't there before. All of a sudden it jumped about like a rollar coaster then settled down as if to level itself. Also the yellow lights went out on the dashboard. ABS and the like, didn't get time to see what they all were. The recovery chap went on his way so I gingerly shut the bonnet grabbed my jump leads, just in case having to flag someone down and I was off. Down the road in full flight. In kickdown the car behind just dissapeared! It ran well for the hour but on return the front doors and windows still didn't open. I started him twice and on finally switching off noted that whirr was still there. Certainly didn't lock it again and hopefully ready to go tomorrow for someone to look at. That's it. **The cause of it all, on looking around I noticed one of the interior lights on. Now I didn't do it!!** Will let you know how I got on after tomorrow. All the best.

It it were me, I'd take the battery out and get it tested. Most motor factors will have a battery condition tester. Or, at least, take off the leads and charge it overnight. Don't forget to turn the steering lock to lock when you start again to get rid of the EAS error that you'll get.

That issue with only opening the rear doors sounds like the ECUs are out of sync. Deffo get the battery tested and replaced if necessary. Oh, you might want to fix the emergency lock too

If you think yours was a challenge, have a read on this thread where a mate of mine had a similar issue with a D3, complete with underbody armour, and an alternator which was behaving like a 3 bar fire.

http://www.disco3club.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopi...p;start=30