Most weeks my 2004 4.4 is doing 400-600 miles. I bought it with 100k on it for fairly little money 3 years ago. For me its a great comfortable, fast office workhorse, doing my mileage it seemed pointless spending 15-20k on a vehicle to depreciate because of the mileage and still having similar running costs. Bought at the almost bottom of the depreciation curve, my only expense is maintenance and fuel.

But, I agree with Craig and Pete. Mine is treated with respect and care but is a highly complex 12 year old car and I don't underestimate the running costs. I'm fortunate enough to not need to be too concerned about a large bill, and with thanks to those on the forum have been able to pre-empt most of the big issues before they come up.

However as these cars get cheaper, add in less routine servicing, maybe cheaper non recommended fluids, oils etc and vehicles with issues being run longer due to financial constraints of repairing and they will trap the unwary. I remember sending mine off to my indy the day after I bought it and getting a £1500 quote for brakes, gearbox oil, fluids, radiator and a few suspension bushes and viewing that as part investment towards the smooth running of the next 20-40k but is someone who is suddenly attracted to one at £6k because its cheap, going to look at that sort of cost in the same way.

My advice is if an unexpected large bill is going to cause you problems then you may be best looking for something else. If you know what you are getting into, go into it with your eyes open, do your research, know what could potentially need done and know what that could cost you'll enjoy almost every moment. Oh and you need a friendly indy or mechanic who will also get to know your car giving consistency- getting it fixed at whatever garage can fit it in each time something needs done won't give you buildup of knowledge on the car.

Some of the M62 4.4's are starting to show issues because of age and the various reasons Pete highlighted above, but the forum is also full of issues with some of the other engined versions too and some of them are much newer. The same rule applies - know what you are getting into.

Above all though - enjoy the journey.

Nick Current Fleet:-
2018 Discovery 5 3.0 HSE
2021 Ford Ranger Wildtrack
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt 5.0 V8
1993 Defender 90 200TDI Pickup

Gone - not forgotten
2016 L405 4.4 SDV8 Vogue SE
2012 L322 4.4 Westminster
2004 L322 4.4 V8 Autobiography LE
2000 P38 RR 4.0 HSE (ex Clarkson test car)

Thanks Nick, great advice. The sort of costs that would bother me are stuff like new gear box or engine. Some things like trim or scratches don't worry me really, I don't expect it to look perfect.

This vehicle has a couple of issues. Chip on windscreen (passed MOT), CD changer doesnt work. Trim on drivers mirror broken. Rear parking sensors a bit temperamental. Air compressor is refurbished but is noisy when raising the car but does work.

What sort of jobs could be sensibly done at home on the drive ? I had a series landy and did jobs like fitting a new prop shaft and fuel tank, plus servicing, oil changes etc. so I have jacks, axel stands tools etc.

Andy

Andy

I wouldn't worry about most of those things, they are all things which can be rectified over time. . The air compressor is a simple job to replace, although the unit itself is expensive (circa £300 from memory). If you are a competent DIY mechanic a lot of things can be done on it yourself, I'm not massively wild about being under it on jacks but my indy frequently does if his ramps are in use. Almost all the issues you'll find answers to here, your issue will be if the engine or gearbox has a problem. Invest in an IID tool or equivalent too - you will need it!

Personally I would steer away from LPG for the same reasons as Craig mentioned, but thats only my personal view - you can diagnose issues easier if the vehicle is as it came out of the factory. Also I wouldn't worry about the number of owners its had - as a 10 - 12 year old premium car its easy for it to clock up a load of owners, as long as its got the history to match. Mine had had 6 previous, but spot on service history and a sheaf of bills to prove work - and it looked like it had been cherished by all of them. Its a buyers market at the moment - buy the best condition, unmolested, most loved, most documented car you can find. A couple of extra owners or a slightly higher than average mileage isn't a bad thing if the rest of it stacks up and the price is right because its at the bottom of its depreciation and they won't make much difference come resale.

Have fun
Nick Current Fleet:-
2018 Discovery 5 3.0 HSE
2021 Ford Ranger Wildtrack
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt 5.0 V8
1993 Defender 90 200TDI Pickup

Gone - not forgotten
2016 L405 4.4 SDV8 Vogue SE
2012 L322 4.4 Westminster
2004 L322 4.4 V8 Autobiography LE
2000 P38 RR 4.0 HSE (ex Clarkson test car)

Actually I suspect your compressor is noisy because its not where it should be - normally would sit in the spare wheel well under the spare wheel, where the LPG tank is and you can't hear it. If its been relocated because of the LPG it may not be soundproofed as well as the factory location.

Just looking at the one you have been looking at again, it is an SE model with a Vogue badge and the Vogue dash screen headunit. You should be able to find a full Vogue or an Autobiography for your money. Current Fleet:-
2018 Discovery 5 3.0 HSE
2021 Ford Ranger Wildtrack
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt 5.0 V8
1993 Defender 90 200TDI Pickup

Gone - not forgotten
2016 L405 4.4 SDV8 Vogue SE
2012 L322 4.4 Westminster
2004 L322 4.4 V8 Autobiography LE
2000 P38 RR 4.0 HSE (ex Clarkson test car)

^ fully agree, concerning the noice. That comes with most lpg cars because the installers take a short cut on that item. I do not agree with all the lpg fear. Had BMW engined and Jaguar engined FF and never had any problem with or related to lpg. The BMW engines do better on lpg, they do not need the self lubing system. BUT....any older car with a lot of owners is a pitfall, you never know how careful they were. A one or two owner older car might have been taken care of better because the owners were not in the "after me the deluge" mindset. Anyway, take care and, as said before, do your homework. If you are really on a budget, buy a car that is cheaper in maintanance and parts.

Ah, I saw that Parker's had it as an SE but assumed it had wrong data. The original reg is a 02 but Parker's says it's a 2003 car.

It has a leather dash and sunroof which I thought indicated a Vogue. What other Vogue refinements should be there / are worth having?

Andy

I have a budget of 10k really but don't want to spend that and then a load on repairs. Also considering a Disco but the RR seems better value in some ways and I prefer its look.

Each his own, but I absolutely love the steeringwheel heating, I like the daylightsensors and the aut. wiper, lazy opening and closing (last one is standard I think?)

Also looking at this http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/adv...;logcode=p.

Can anyone help with the engine on this? It is listed as having 295bhp ( I am assuming Autotrader automatically supplies these figures based on the registration), higher the BMW v8 but not as high as the Jag units (which I believe don't come in until 2006). Also has different (better) mpg figures to the BMW engine. The bhp seems to match that of the engine in Disco 3 and early RRS V8s, I thought that was the Jaguar engine. Bit confused.

Are there any real reliability improvements with late 2004 vehicles compared with 2002/2003 vehicles?

Andy[/url]

That is the BMW V8 sir , So just erant figures from somewhere . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

OK, thanks for looking

Still looking at different possibilities and am viewing a couple this week. I have decided against a TD6 and want to concentrate on petrol/LPG or higher mileage, early model TDV8 like this http://www.autotrader.co.uk/used-cars/land...tm_source.

The other I am viewing is a 54 plate petrol vogue with prins LPG, 1 owner, 122k miles, excellent service history at an indy and no problems for £6.5k.

I am leaning towards the petrol at the moment, nearly 4k cheaper, 20k miles less, similar running costs and only 18 months older. TDV8 potential turbo and EGR issues whilst BMW v8 has possible cooling and timing chain issues (cheaper to sort?). Anyone see any flaws in this logic, is the TDv8 worth the extra money?

Andy

Following from what Pete was saying just an example mine has done 125k 60k in last couple of years and have just bought 2 new rear shocks two front control arms and offside rear wishbone parts were 800 quid now I will replace the brake discs and pads at same time I have them in the garage but it wold be another 400 quid so even without a catastrophic failure they can munch a few quid. Having said that I like everything to be just so so don't mind and it works hard
And I have a boat so the ff is cheap

I actually agree with craig. IMO the 07-09 is more reliable than 2010-12 and the 07-09 are much much better than previous range rovers, 06 Imo was the first year the rr sets down the path of improved reliability and it shows. I have far less work on my 06 than my p38.

I have a buyers guide http://offroadrover.com/range-rover-buying-guide/ , on my blog and offroad oriented buyers guide as well http://offroadrover.com/range-rover-buying...ers-guide/ .

There is a document in topix which goes over what to inspect which may also be helpful. OffRoadRover.com An American Western Range Rover Off Road Blog

Does a 06 or 56 plate vehicle fall into the 'more reliable' bracket?