Hoping someone can help,
Had the low pressure pipe split just by the Schrader bleed valve, car pulled up stinking of fuel but still running, replaced the pipe, bled it up and the engine wouldn't start, we tried and tried, keeping voltage up with jump leads but to no avail. Put auto logic on it and came up with p0191-23 code which is low rail pressure. Did a fuel pump reset, cracked the high pressure pipes on both rails and wound over on starter until fuel was coming out of both rails. Retightened pipes, wound over and over but still nothing. Disconnected battery, locked the car and went for a frustrated cup of tea, came back for one last try and it fired straight up as though nothing was wrong but immediately went into low pressure limp mode, dropped suspension and 3rd gear only. Cleared all faults, restarted and same again, cleared faults again and took it down the road where it stopped and hasn't started since. Low pressure is fine at 8psi/5psi cranking, fuel is in the rail and flows when cranking, p0191-23 code is still present. Changed fuel filter, did another pump reset. The only other code stored is short to earth on a glow plug which I am assuming is a dodgy glow plug, explaining previous lumpy tick over on start up on a cold morning. Any wise ideas?! I've heard of fuel filter housing trouble with sensors and Pcv/FCV getting in a tiz, pretty sure high pressure pump is ok as it hasn't run dry. Have also heard of a reflash on Ecu getting them going when they get confused. Regards George

They are very sensitive to low volts, remove and charge the battery fully, then retry, the battery disconnection will help as well..

See the WIKI (link top right under fullfatrr.com) for the correct battery disconnection procedure....

Don't go reflashing ECU's until you explore every other option....  Pete

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I had a battery draining problem on my P38 2.5D years ago which was eventually traced down to a faulty glow plug.
I took them out, tested them with a megger 5 read over 2M ohm, one virtually 0 ohm when under megger test but OK with an AVO ohmmeter test.

Unnecessary quote removed

Thanks for that, we gave that a go previously unfortunately but with no luck, agree with reflash being one of the last options, bloody stupid idea not being able to reset pcv fcv through autologic if its capable of getting that confused by an air bubble, it's got two head techs confused so far as there really is no logic to what's happened. Hopefully we can find someone who's had the same trouble