My old lse is only 700 miles from 200k miles and I've promised it a rebuild. I'm fairly sure the cam is round but it still plugs along.
I'm casting around for recommendations for the work, ideally in central england. I've come across the big boys, rpi, v8developments , je, turners etc but as I'm only after a rebuild back to factory output it must be within the realms of lots of places.
I've had a quote and I've no doubt it would be a good job but its quite alot so due diligence means a few more.
I want to keep the same block to keep the numbers etc and it needs to be reliable for the next 100k miles.
So any suggestions?

Thanks
David

Ivor Serle - Soham Cambridge. I have no affinity with them at all. When I worked in the industry I used them quite a few times and they are spot on. They are members of the FER and all that good stuff.

Whatever you do and with who, I would opt for, at least get the better timing chain and gears, the old are nylon, and not too good. Cheap upgrade too.
Although the standard camshaft is about £50, better more torque low rev powerful cam shafts are available for about £150, it's almost the best thing to do to this use of the rover v8. You could research the parts you need beforehand.
I have used Real Steel, in sw London, for parts..(.10 years ago) and have heard very good reviews of turner engineering. But the engine is very simple, and conventional. Any typical engine machine shop, should be able to quote you. Rebore/relinering, regrind crank, new valve guides, valves, pistons, bearings etc.new tappets, crank and timing gears. Pump gears too. You can opt for new rocker shafts, and followers, and pushrods, some ask for the inlet/exhaust ports to be matched to how the gasket/manifold is cast, which often are not well matched to the actual smaller holed cast Ali heads. Gives better flow and throttle response..And also, the valve seats can be 3 angle machined, instead of just one...to give so extra flow. Not expensive, and worth asking beforehand.
In the past, I have tided up some old rover engines, in situ... With a de-grease, of the rockers, (caked in Black Death carbon..) new cam and tappets, timing gears, and all without taking engine out! With massive results.
Keep all your paperwork. It's the only proof you did all the work.

Read up on tophat liners. This is the saviour of the rover v8, as they suffer from porous engine blocks.

I've got an old 3.9 Vogue looking at sending my engine here for a rebuild.

http://www.armsonae.co.uk

Supposed to have a good rep and are sponsors on the D2BC forum.
Camshaft on them rover engines supposed to be done every 80k as the lobes wear down. I'm looking at an aftermarket one to for more torque.

Thanks both. I've used Stuart (armson) before but not recently. I need some body work too but I'm not sure he offers that. I'll ask.
David

If (not sure) they're still going I would always go to C&K Engineering in High Wycombe. In my youth when I used to rally Escorts, Chris used to do all my engines including a 2.6 Hart. To say the workmanship was good is like saying the Pope likes to go to church sometimes.

He reworked a road-going Sierra Cosworth engine for me from the standard 4 injector 205BHP to the RS500 8 injector 500BHP monster and everything was spot on first time. That included rebore, crank grind & full balancing & blueprinting of the bottom end. It was so smooth, no vibration that I ever found, free revving and never had the usual cold engine piston slap which was so common on those engines.

Like I say, they may not still be there. It was almost 30 years ago I was using them but if they are still going I would highly recommend them.

This lot?
http://www.ckmotorengineers.co.uk/contact.php

I'll have a look.
Thanks

Yes, they're the people. Glad to see they're still going and they'll do you proud.

You cant get more central england than here:

http://4x4development.co.uk/#/about/4576459260

Dave has been my indie now for over 15 years and he is very capable and knowledgeable.

 405 AB exec seats Baltic and Cirrus
93 RR Classic efi

Remember it's easier to get forgiveness than permission!

Gone in order:
4.4 TDV8 SE - gone to a good home
93 Classic hard dash Plymouth Blue
03 L322 Oslo Blue
2000 Disco TD5 ES Epsom Green
98 P38 Rioja Red
89 Classic Cairngorm Brown

I had all the valve guides replaced by Real Steel, and they did an excellent job... I don't know if they still run a machine shop, but they are worth talking to  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

My LSE's not all that far from 200k - seems to be running fine, but I'll go 4.6 (or 5.0) if/when it does need doing - you're paying for the same bits whether you stay 4.3 or not.

Trommel,
Don't you think it would be better to keep the 4.2 as its (almost) a model specific engine?
I've had some very practical and prompt info from Turners and a 4.6 from them is sensible money but I'd prefer to keep the original block and number.
I need to check but I don't think they will rebuild mine.

ajac8 wrote:

You cant get more central england than here:

http://4x4development.co.uk/#/about/4576459260

Dave has been my indie now for over 15 years and he is very capable and knowledgeable.

I think he means keep the original block, and have it as a 4.6. That would mean fitting a 4.6 crank and con rods. Pistons will be same size, sort of.
All these 4.0 and 4.6 engines have an inherent problem, with the liners slipping down. Hence it is wise to consider the top hat type liners. They have a stepped top, and can't slip down.
If you have or get a cracked block, they seal the leaks. This problem, killed off thousands of p38 RR's as just refining,, or buying anew LR block, meant you had the same problem again. Eventually.
You either opt for top hat liners, or go for a modified block. That is not the original Land Rover item. RPI supply a better block, known as the 'Coscast' v8 block. It was developed by Cosworth. They have a lot of info (RPI) to read on their site.

You can get liner slip/porous liner also on the intermediate serpentine V8 engine, talking from personal experience, I have a 94 3.9 classic, and stripped the engine many times

If it is running well, why rebuild, if the camshaft is going they are easy to change in situ. (barring radiator)

They are an easy engine to rebuild.

You cannot fit an uprated chain if it is a serpentine engine (crank driven oil pump) Regards
Royston

2008 4.2 Supercharged Autobiography
1994 Classic Vogue SE
1999 Rover BRM
1987 Rover Vitesse Twin Plenum