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Last edited by rrsimon on 19th Mar 2016 5:32pm. Edited 2 times in total

Sounds like the lock up clutch in the torque convertor. Grinding is probably due to metal to metal where the friction material has worn off. The drive plate looks much like a standard manual clutch. To replace, the weld joining the two halves of the torque convertor cover together has to be ground off and rewelded to form an oil tight seal, once the plate has been replaced and everything cleaned out thorouhly.
Best to get the whole transmission stripped and cleaned out. I opted not to have that done and had to return a short time later for the complete rebuild, including the torque convertor having again to be stripped as any bits of metal etc are pumped through the whole transmission.
I'd suggest taking it to a good transmission specialist. I have rebuilt a ZF Jag transmission myself but the GM with lock up clutch needs some proper knowledge with the right tools and skills.
To make these transmissions so smooth there is a lot more slipage in the clutches and so every 10 years or so there is a good chance they will need a rebuild.

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Last edited by rrsimon on 19th Mar 2016 5:33pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hope that fixes it, good luck.
(They call prop shafts tail shafts here, even the front ones!)

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Last edited by rrsimon on 19th Mar 2016 5:33pm. Edited 1 time in total

getting to a marginal point in terms of repairing it. A full rebuild will probably be a couple of grand, which you won't get back when you sell, in any great way.

It could be cash neutral to shift it on with the known fault, if you have lost faith.

However if you get it repaired then you know it will be good gearbox wise for a fair few miles, replacing the TC at the same time as the gearbox is a no brainer. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
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Has the transmission lost both 4th and 5th gears?
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post149925.html#149925

Phil

BUgga. I think these GM boxes as with ZF trannys need rebuilding around every 10 year mark.
I have a very friendly fully qualified expert I'd recommend but he is in Western Australia.
They are expensive to repair but best to spend the money and do a proper job. Any bits of crap from broken parts do tend to be pumped throughout the transmission as well as the torque converter, so a complete strip down and thorough clean is essential.
The parts are relatively inexpensive. I had a bash at rebuilding a ZF transmission in my old Jag XJ40 with the help of a barefooted New Zealander on YouTube who shows how to make a couple of tools quite cheaply for grasping the shafts and compressing the clutches and shows how to strip and rebuild a 5 speed ZF which aren't hugely different from the GM, which I believe is made in France! Jag runs perfectly and I now have first hand knowledge of what's involved and would only trust my fatty to an expert.
I'm not sure if you've had a look inside one of these transmissions, they are a work of art. Essentially there is a multi plate clutch for each gear, much like a motorbikes. The friction material does wear out. All the clutches, planetary gears etc are brilliantly squeezed into the main casing tube I suppose you could call it with the main shaft running through the centre. Each clutch is operated by a blast of tranny fluid which is directed where it needs to go by a hugely complicated looking series of oil channels and electronic valves and galleries in the shaft itself.
Once stripped and each clutch is disassembled the worn ones become obvious as they are burned and black, not the normal cork colour. You may already have noticed your transmission fluid has become a dirty brown instead of a clean red.
The Yanks know a thing or two about autos and I actually bought all the clutches, rubbers, seals, etc for only $360 from a mob called Cobra transmissions. That included the 'steels' or metal rings which sit between each friction plate but I wouldn't bother with them next time as the old ones were fine.
Sorry, hacking on a bit! Essentially what I mean to say is they are not difficult to rebuild, the parts are relatively cheap but the labour is where your money goes. The workshop does need to be meticulously clean and the bloke needs to know what he's doing. Particularly he must be able to grind the welds off from around the torque converter casing to get at the lock up clutch and reweld to achieve a good oil tight seal.
It's a couple of days of work at least, just removing the one piece exhaust from your fatty is hard enough! A full day of strip, clean and rebuild then once back in the car a proper repairer will have flushed the oil cooler and lines and will have the equipment to refill with fluid through one of these lines.
If he doesn't wear nice clean nitrile gloves then take it somewhere else. It is impossible to grasp tranny fluid covered tools and parts with you bare hands. I'd suggest finding out who your local Land Rover dealer sends their transmissions to, I wouldn't mind betting they don't do them themselves. (I used to work at Lex in Cheltenham about 40 years ago! It wasn't planned, I actually went to sign on the dole and the bastards gave me a job!!!! Left the country soon after!)

I can say that Suffolk autotransmissions are great very helpfully and quick 1937 model y hot rod 1000bhp rover75 v8 vincert blackshadow plus several boats and other toyz ! ford f150 raptor Mercedes e class convertible jaguar f pace

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