I'm thinking of doing my own interim oil change on my 3.6 tdv8 fatty and I'm toying with the idea of buying a sealey tp69 vacuum oil remover and sucking out the oil through the dipstick after reading about the way the oil tends to go all over the place when you remove the drain plugs saving grief from swmbo if I were to get oil all over the drive.i just wondered if anyone else had used this method and is the dipstick hole large enough to take the oil vacuum tube, I've looked at feedback about this method which seems to be quite good Any thoughts?.Also what type of oil should I use?.Ive looked at the chart on the wiki but the 3.6 engine isn't listed. My handbook says to use 5W/30 WSS-M2C913-B .But I've read on here about using oil to A1 spec whatever that is? Or would I be ok buying a branded oil ( Castrol ,shell,Mobil etc) 5W/30 spec ?.Sorry if this is a bit long winded but I want to make sure I use the correct grade / quality of oil..Thanks. 2009 Vogue SE Zermatt silver

Hi if you fashion an empty milk container you can funnel the old oil straight into an oil catch tray or similar without any spillage

Thanks buffalo but I thought if I got an oil oil pump I could use it to do diff oils and transfer case oils etc. 2009 Vogue SE Zermatt silver

I'm not a fan of removing oil through the dipstick.

I know that some garages favour this as a way of not needing ramp space and to improve labour efficiency. Yet, I've seen Disco 3's that have been serviced this way and the skid plate blots are so rusted on that it is practically impossible to remove without cutting them off. You also don't get to see what else is going on under the engine on a regular basis. I also fear that not everything is sucked out and inevitably, you'll leave oil at the bottom of the sump at the point where the tube starts sucking air. On cars with magnetic sump plugs you also get to see some evidence of the state of engine wear - and the plugs should be cleaned anyway.

For the sake of 5 mins, get under the car and take the sump plug out - If you're worried about getting messy, use a latex/nitrile glove when taking the sump plug out above a 50p washing up bowl to catch everything. Current:
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As above plus I use a flattened out cardboard box on the ground. This will catch any drips/spillage, and makes it easy to slide the bowl out.

Mrtidy,
Check out the Draper oil extractor from Machine Mart before you purchase.
It has 10 litre capacity.

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https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

be aware there are 2 sump plugs on the 3.6.

get under it an drain the oil out of both of them from the bottom. Its not a real chore. A nice big catch pan and gloves, along with some bent card to funnel the oil from the alkward one.

WSS MCC913 B is the correct spec for the engine. Its not just any old brand in 5w30. It needs to be that ford spec or better, Shell do it in helix. There is a HX shell as well but that is a semi synth, it comes up to the spec but I personally would go Fully synth.

Look on the back of the bottles, they list all the specs that the oils meet. Each one will meet loads of different ones, 913-b isn't that hard to find, Halfords do it, ECP will do an oil in that spec, and most motor factors will do some generic oil to meet the spec too.

If you don't want to be bothered shopping around then check out OPIE oils on tinter web site sponsor on here, and massive range.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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I would echo everyone suggesting to do it properly by taking the sump plug off. If a garage used a vacuum through dipstick I would stay clear of the cow boys. This is why I like to do the service myself. Peace of mind that it's done properly and rushed in with any shortcuts.

Another thing that is cringeworthy.. changing oil without replacing the oil filter.. for the price of a filter why would you not change it with every oil change.

on another note I have 2 questions. Previously I always used Forte Engine flush before the oil and filter change. Does anyone flush their ffrr? Secondly I know the recommendation is 5w30 but is there any harm using 5w40?

I bought one of the sealey pumps a couple of years ago and use it a lot on all my cars, I use it on my boat engines (no sump plug on those) and my jetski. Never had a problem and I suspect most garages will use a similiar device as it is so much easier than taking off under trays etc.

Darren

Well I've ordered a sealey pump and I'll get the correct oil and a gen filter from ducky Dan and give the fatty an oil change. I am going to get it serviced every year at my indy and then do an oil change myself every 6 months or so. I'm hoping the pump will be a good buy for doing diff oils etc and my sons punto. . 2009 Vogue SE Zermatt silver

I've looked on opie oils and noticed miller oils in the correct spec for £60 .I've heard miller oils are good so think I might go the miller route. 2009 Vogue SE Zermatt silver

Used to do oil my own oil changes (still do on the race car), but for all the road cars now I just use national tyre as they do an oil and filter change using good brand oil for cheaper than I can buy the oil myself. Saves on the potential mess and disposal as well.

The tdv8 comes in at £71 all in if you use the 10% off code of dv125. Current cars:
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Opie oils delivered quicly for me when i did the transfer box and diff oils and if you use their code fullchat for forum members its an extra 10% discount so even better!  Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

I've just been looking on opieoils website and using the look up tool on there website shell helix ultra is listed but the spec says
WSS-M2C 934-B is this spec ok as my handbook says 913-B ?.Thanks. 2009 Vogue SE Zermatt silver

Give them a message via the site sponsors section. Theres always advance factors another site sponsor too who do an all in one bundle and list the oils for each. Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue