The better half is consisting a RR sport, to go alongside my full fat RR. Any of you own a sport, or owned one? What are they like, and any things to watch out for?
Thanks in advance

I've had two as rentals in the past... Honestly i would not touch one unless uber uber cheap now.

One was a 3.0 SDV6, it seemed to have loose interior fittings but i only had it for two days as a work rental so wasn't fussed.

The other was a 3.6TDV8 that i was meant to have for 2 weeks while the FF was repaired.
This had no end of engine and electrical issues. on day 3 the oil warning came up so i phone LRA and they came out and put 7 litres of oil in it.... I drove it the next day back to the rental place and the engine started to let go big time. So much so that the smokescreen behind me caused the police to pull me over and escort me to the rental place as i dont think they believed that it was my car and that i was heading there...

Later got a nice letter about the repair work undertaken on it... new engine, turbos...

IMO the engine bay just isnt great for the bigger engines to get adequate airflow around to cool the components when they are driven as most SS are driven. The same engines in the SS are a lot more troublesome than in the FF. Just look at the amount that need rebuilds and on the sport forum the issues they have with even the V6 ones, admittedly the 2.7's have plenty of known weak points now but still. lot of work to repair them

Id say go for an FL2 or if she must an Epoke. if she really really wants one id let her go and find it and keep disolved of it as it will only cause pain...

Lass in work just exchanged her 2010 3.0 SDV6 for an X5 3.0 as she had enough of it, her words were "the dealer has it more than me in the last 2 years so ive given up"

Kind of sums it up really! FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

What age/engine are you thinking of?

This is a post I made a little while ago on RRSport (with the emphasis being on the 2.7 TDV6 and 3.8 TDV8; with the facelift 3.0, quite a bit is improved):

Lost for Words wrote:

I'll try to go through some common/major issues. Bear in mind, a lot/most of these are mileage dependant. In no particular order:

Suspension components - they're heavy cars and get through bushes very fast. It's only wear and tear but this can end up costing quite a lot. Correct alignment is also critical to prevent faults an irregular tyre wear.

Gearbox - the gearbox is very good and strong, BUT, unless it has been serviced, torque converter failure is almost inevitable. If left too long, the whole box can develop issues. In short, it's a great transmission, but fresh oil is key.

Battery and alternator - they aren't battery or alternator friendly. OE (Denso) alternators are a must. They're easy to replace on the TDV6 (a bit harder if fitted with ACE). The TDV8 is not as accessible.

ACE - if fitted, leaks can be expensive, and are not uncommon.

EGRs - a common failure on both the TDV6 and TDV8. I believe they can all be blanked, but I'm not sure of the specifics with the TDV8 (but I know it does require a software patch). On the TDV6, a software patch is required on 07MY vehicles onwards (EU4), but not on earlier ones (EU3). The patch is often applied at the same time as a remap.

Front to rear brake pipes - these corrode, and often need to be replaced. Flaring the pipes and fitting copper ones to the back section is the easiest/cheapest/best option.

Wheel and towbar thefts - the spare wheel and the removable towbars (if left in) can be easily and quickly stolen. Protection plates are available for the spare wheel. I'm imagining these are less likely to be an issue over there though, anyway.

MPG - just don't expect it to make anywhere near the official figures.

Turbo actuators - aside from general turbo failure, actuators can seize, casuing boost faults. This is a more common issue on lightly used vehicles in particular - so a potential consideration in your case.

HVAC - two common places for leaks are the condeser and the rear HVAC pipes (if fitted). AFAIK, the rear pipes can't be replaced without the body off. Blanking off the rear is an option should this occur.

Rear propshaft - it's quite common for the centre bearing to fail. Little success has been had replacing the bearing alone, so a new shaft is needed. Easy to replace, however.

Bluetooth - the bluetooth system is poor. A software update can help improve pairing issues or a D4/later RRS module can be fitted which improves sound quality too.

Navigation - there are no genuine updates available beyond the 2011/12 disc. Fakes are available, but links are not allowed on the site. The system is not great, but it is at leat built in and does work. I'm quite happy with it.

Front wheel bearings - a common failure at some point. Much less common since LR reduced the ridiculous 350Nm torque figure on the hub nuts. Again, pretty easy to change though.

Turbo hoses - they often split causing a lack of power and black smoke. Silicone replacements are recomended. In the case of the TDV6, the main hose is very easy to swap.

Brake switch and bulbs - the fomer should be considered a serviceable item. They fail causing transmision/HDC faults and limp mode etc. but are cheap and take 5 minutes to change. Failed or poor brake bulbs are also a common cause of HDC faults.

Suspension - the air suspension system can develop leaks. They don't happen all the time but can cause issues. The original Hitachi compressors also fail. When they do, a much improved AMK version can be fitted. Hight sensors are another culprit - you can by sets of them on Ebay from a LR dealer for £30 though.

Wheel nuts - locking nuts break (best binned) standard nuts swell. Replacements £3 from Advanced Factors.

Brakes - sliding pins can seize, and calipers too.

Cruise control switch loom - the loom behind the drivers airbag often brakes, causing loss of CC. Alternatively, it can be the switches or clockspring.

Glowplugs - these fail after a while and sometimes can have a habit of snapping when an attempt is made to remove them. This means the cylinder heads have to come of to replace them. Fitting a controller and using teh fuel burning heater (FBH) to pre-warm the engine can be a good alternative.

SRS - it's quite common for the wiring and connectors under the seats to cause the airbag light to come on. This is deosn't prevent it from working but can be difficult at MOT time.

OE Jack - do not use it; it's made of cheese and is unsafe. The wheel brace is useless too.

Parkbrake - you've probably heard horror stories about this. If it is kept well adjusted, it's absolutely fine. Should you get the dreaded "scream", stop using it immediately. Disco_Mikey has also written a guide on repairing the module should it need it.

Low pressure fuel pump - it's not unusual for this to fail, requiring the tank to be dropped and a new one fitted. A lot cheaper than the high pressure pump though, failure of which is rare.

TDV6 Oil pump - a weak version of the casing was fitted from 07MY to part way through 08MY (potentially on late 06MY too). The cam belt tensioner is attatched to it which breaks off, causing catastrophic engine failure. Mostly, it occurs after the cam belt is renewed (105k/7 years). It is therefore essantial that the pump is replaced at the same time. I understand such failure has occured on other versions too, but less so - a new oil pump is a good thing to have anyway.

These are just some of the things that spring to mind; there are other things I've forgotten, no doubt, and some more specific/unusal things. Please don't let it put you off though! As I say, most of them are mileage dependant, and many easily rectified. In addition, we're here to help when issues arise.

The TDV6 is less susceptible to turbo failure than the TDV8, but they all have their issues. The above is NOT intended to put anyone off, but successful ownership does depend on a positive attitude towards preventitive maintenance; treat it well and it will be your friend. A FF owner is not likely to be unfamiliar with such requirements anyway.

If you want lower costs, I'd echo KP's advice - a FL2 is certainly a good option.

Do pop over to RRSport and DISCO3/4 to get more advice too.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Interestingly I drove a 3.0 SDV6 D4 and thought it was superb. Can't comment on the RRS but I thought the 3.0 coupled to the 8 spd box made a great drive. Is this where I put the car details and a bit about myself ?........

Thanks guys

Looking at 08 or 09 plate and was thinking TDV8, only because a friend has a 2010 FF TDV8 (I think 3.6) and it goes really well, and Mrs doesnt want a car as big as the FF (even though she uses mine)

If you're thinking 3.6 there does seem to be quite a lot of issues with the RRS in this guise, as was previously worded you may get a later FL2 HSE...with a remap it'll not be far off the pace of a RRS.... Is this where I put the car details and a bit about myself ?........

If she doesn't want something as big, then the FL2 is certainly sounding pretty ideal TBH.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Hey don't be doing the sport down

I had a 2010 HSE 3.0 Tdv6- it was brilliant

Ran it for 60,000 miles in just under 2 years and it was brilliant

It's high speed handling in the Scottish glens was fab

Comfort- fab
Economy was ok
A little small inside- opposite of a tardis
Looks and quality of paint was ace
Build quality- definitely a luxury car
Performance in a flooded muddy field- not great-needed manual extraction= dig it out and jet wash it😆

Would I have another one- hell yes, I nearly did last weekend, my purchase failed because of the £. Loss on my current BMW 330d Sport

Get SWMBO one pronto

Reecy

Great cars, I have had 2 RRS's and loved both of them. I still miss my 2012 RRS.

My 1st one was a 2007 TDV6 & a 2012 SDV6 HSE. If the budget allows go for 2010+ facelift model as it looks more modern and has a much nicer interior.

Main thing to look out for is service history, make sure it is fully up to date and check if everything works. I would avoid the 3.6 TDV8 engine, a few RRSPORT have had problems with them (mainly turbo related)

Have a read through on the RRSPORT forum, you can find plenty of help & info over there.  2014 SDV8 Autobiography

Gone: 2012 RRS SDV6 HSE, 2007 RRS TDV6 HSE

I've had one and I didn't get on with it.
Can't fault the engine and box (mine was a 2010 V63.0) but it ain't no fatty!

I will say I had it 9 months and sold it for 50 quid less than I paid for it so it was very economical motoring.

Would I have another one,,,,,,,,,,,,, yes. Especially if it was for the Mrs!

JasM wrote:

If the budget allows go for 2010+ facelift model as it looks more modern and has a much nicer interior.

Sound advice, but even more so for mechanical/functional reasons.

As always though, important to remember, a good pre-facelift is still better than a bad post-facelift, when the budget becomes limiting. My advice in this regard is always to buy on the actual cars available.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

The dimensions between an FF and SS surely cant be that much different to her!?!

Inside maybe as the high centre console packs you into a little slot compared to the FF and im sure they are slightly heavier than an FF as well if not the same weight... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

They are indeed heavier. The TDV6 and 6-speed ZF combination is a step ahead of the TD6 and 5-speed GM FF of the time though (albeit less tasteful than a FF, of course).

As much as I love the Disco and RRS, I do think a FL2 sounds more appropriate. A great vehicle (had one for ~3 years, until it got written off ) which I think would be perfect as a second LR. I'd have one alongside the D3 if it weren't for the increased costs. (If you want something a little quicker, perhaps consider a 3.2 i6, particularly with diesel troubles looming?)  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Very true but the TDV8 wasn't far off coming to market at the time the sport and Disco came out. The td6/GM combo is a 90's throwback setup that ford got lumbered with when they bought jlr as it was too late to change then but by god they should have done  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.