Went to go out this morning and did the usual quick glance to make sure that I had 4 wheels and that they were round, which they were, and went on my merry way........
Got to where I was going, got out the car, turn around to have an admiring glance and Big hole in the middle of the wheel , where it had said Land Rover, a big void, thieving gits
But on reflection, I don't remember the large void when I got in to the car, so on closer inspection, it would appear that there is a bit more corrosion in the wheel centre than I thought. And it would appear that it has lifted the cap and caused it to depart as I was going down the M1. So if anybody was going North on the M1, between Junction 10 and junction 13, at 09.30 and you received a Land Rover wheel centre through your window, can I have it back ?
And if it caused an accident, it wasn't mine, must have been the other chaps

So the moral of the story is if your wheels are showing signs of going crispy in the centre, I'd recommend removing the centres and knocking some of the crud out, possibly some WD40 as well, to encourage the caps to stay put.

I have just had to purchase some new caps, which will be going on my other rims when they've had a refurb. They are the latest type, black and chrome with a green badge, at a price that you'd pay for 1, but I got a set

BARGAIN CAP LINK !!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281655793374?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Shame you don't know anyone with a spare set in his shed .......

Are but I do, me Only they haven't got the centres  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I would suggest to remove all the caps, then remove the corrosion,
then get some silicone,
and glue the caps in place with a thin bead .
This will then prevent water and corrosives from sitting behind the cap and rusting the wheel and hub surfaces.
the caps are easily knocked out from behind when its time to balance the wheel

Mrmerlin, thanks for your words of wisdom, however I have gone down a slightly different route. I had the spare set of rims, that were in my shed, re-furbished, removing all signs of corrosion and making the wheel caps fit nice and snugly  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

thats good that you got the corrosion removed,
I would suggest you use some silicone and put a thin bead around the edge of the cap and then fit it into place,
this will prevent them from being stolen ,
and it will prevent water from leaking past the cap and filling the hub up and corroding the wheel to the hub.
I have done this to more than a few trucks,
now the wheels dont corrode at the concentric collar to wheel

Now there's a good tip if ever I herd one
I hate having to kick the stuffing out of the wheel, just to remove it, especially at the side of the road.... looks like you've lost it to on lookers, even if the car does deserve it  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

coat the mating face of the wheel with copper grease, and it stops it corroding to the hub. It's even listed as part of Land-Rovers service schedule.

Done that one already, but the salt water can turn it quite quickly into a dry corroded mess, as they regularly say, at least 4 times an hour, on commercial TV, every little helps....... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

it depends on the quality of the grease used. Some of the cheaper ones have more grease than copper, which just washes off leaving hardly anything on the mating face. But even when dry the copper prevents the wheel and hub welding themselves together.

even if you use grease your all missing the point,
if you can keep water from getting in it wont corrode.

The grease does help but a sealed cap works even better

unless you silicone the wheel onto the mating face of the hub it will still corrode onto the hub without grease. The corrosion will then spread up the centre of the wheel.

I think that a combination is the best way to go, in my experience, when a wheel corrosion welds' its self to the hub, most of the corrosion is around the centre of the wheel. Therefore I can only conclude that it has been due to water ingress past the centre cap, so sealing that point of entry up makes sense. However this is not to say that copper slipping the hub should be ignored, because if the wheel were to corrode on from the outside, it will result in sledge hammers at twenty paces
And we don't want that  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!