Bought the 2004 knowing this issue. Rear door locks will lock with key fob but not unlock. I can hear the solenoids working but button doesn't lift. You can open door from the inside. CDL release on the dash (fascia) doesn't unlock the rear doors either. At first reading I thought it was the BCU points style switch needing replacement but I would assume I would have neither lock and unlock if that was the issue.
Also after reading some of the things the IID tool can do thought it might be a program from a PO. Any input?

I'm guessing the lock modules have packed up...... But both to go at the same time would be very unlucky. Get in there and strip them down.

I would guess both latches have packed up... The CL motor is part of the latch so would need replacing in its entirety... Have had this happen a few times (both doors within days of each other) surprisingly quite common

Very common on the sport - was an embarrassment for JLR on warranty.

Thanks folks, you people are so much nicer than rangerrover.net.

I had to have a latch replaced on mine for this, as Craig says. Within 6 months the other rear door had the same issue.....

Luckily my non Land Rover warranty covered the work.

I seem to remember the latches are about £95 ? 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I found that some of these style BMW lock actuators are repairable. There are 2 motors in them. One for lock and one for unlock. If you can get to the motors they are simple $3 (2 quid). These units for the RR dont look too frendly to open. I found 2 new for $75 US each. I will dissect an old one after the new one is in. Often the motors can be cleaned and its good to go.

Correction 2 used units. Oh well they work. I will post pictures later. To DX the problem I put an ohm meter to the electrical connection before removing the lock. Pin 7 and 8 power the lock motors and are marked on the connector. The connector has a squeeze type lock. Pinch and wiggle and it will come out. I used long straight pins in the female end of pin 7 and 8. Connect ohm meter and set for 20 volt range. Close doors and use key fob. If current to the connector is intact the volts will be read in both lock and unlock. Essentially ground(earth) is reversed when going from lock to unlock. It appears that both of the lock motors must operate to have enough power to unlock but only one to lock.

Interesting... Thanks for letting us know your findings sir

I need to fix my drivers door lock so I tried to find replacement motors for the actuator. Dont let the Johnson name fool you. Its made by a Hong Kong company. I decided to open up the dead motor and try cleaning it again. I noticed the shaft the brushes contact have 3 copper contact areas that should be separated by a gap. My gaps were full of crud. Cleaned them out and the motor seems fine. The hong kong "Johnson" company did not list the motors that could be bought online but possibly through a dealer. I'll keep looking. Much rather buy a $5 motor than a $150 actuator.

Last edited by doclees on 9th Apr 2016 12:24am. Edited 1 time in total

It never ceases to amaze me just how many things are "unrepairable" according to the manufacturer, and yet with a bit of enginuity and dogged determination the "unrepairable" item can be brought back to life. Hats off to you Sir, top job, and keep up with the "well I can't brake it cos it's broken.. but I might be able to fix it" mentality, I live by it  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Thanks but its not back together and tested yet and i still need to find a short cut to disassembling the actuator. Maybe with more practice i can get it down to 45 min total fix time it will be worth it.

Ok so getting the repair time down is easy but you will need to drill and tap a small hole. More on this later. The problem I am finding is sourcing the motors. One is Johnson (Hong Kong) and the other is Mabuchi (japan). Where they are actually made? Who knows. Neither Johnson or Mabuchi list a motor with the 28mm shaft length. All seem to be 20mm. About $4 each.
I broke down another Johnson motor. They have more wear in the brushes and shaft plastic bushing than the Mabuchi motors. So even though I got the motor working again I dont thing it will last long. Need new motors.

That's beginning to sound like another BMW made under licence and not available to Joe Public sort of thing It might be worth posing the question on a BMW forum... you never know  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

It may not work, but I used to do a lot of slot car racing (scalextric) but we scratch built our own cars. These look very similar to the 12v motors we used. Perhaps look at model shops? Possibly r/c models might have similarly sized motors?