Hi All,



Subject: Key won't turn to switch on engine



Diagnosis & Symptoms

Steering Wheel Locked
Cannot move key to the right, but can remove the key
Tried wiggled Key
Tried Key Circular Motion
Tried steering wheel left and right while turning key
Tried spare key
Tried locking & locking door
Tried turn signal left and right few times
Tried adjusting the steering position
Tried folding side mirrors
Check Fuse 18 (could not find, attached)
Jump start (Did not try)


Solutions

New Keys?
New Ignition Switch
New Battery?
New Alternator?
New Transponder?
ECU Fault?
Clamp on battery poles loose?
Bad connections?
New sensor ring (Around key hole, not reading Transponder)
Remove Plunger?



My Case


Took key out, removed the (-) cable from battery, waited ten minutes, re-attached. Started car, key in ignition switch and key turned. Parked car underground. Managed to make the wife happy for about ten minutes….round 2?


Question

Is it the Battery (Currently AC Delco) or is it the Ignition Switch?


(How do I upload videos?)



Thanks all.

I would have thought if the battery was expired it wouldn't start the car at all. I would be looking at the key/transponder, have you tried the spare key? SC 4.2, 2012 face lifted, 25K miles, 1 previous owner
Triumph TR6 1973
Triumph Bonneville 1970
Previous:
2002 TD6
Merc SL500
Escort RS Cosworth
RR 3.9 Vogue
4.2 E type Jag replica (challenger)
Escort RS2000 (many)
Escort RS 1600 Turbo

Yes I would of thought the same. Note that previous owner did advise to change the battery and that was about 5 months ago. I've tried the spare key previously noted below.

Before I go change the battery, can anyone see please share some words of wisdom?

Currently the key doesn't turn, so will repeat what I did to get the key to turn and start car, then go replace battery.




Thanks,

I would start with the easiest thing first and give the battery terminals a good clean. Have a search on here there are several threads on it and it could be related to any one of the issues you have said. If it does it with both keys then I think you can probably rule out a transponder problem in the key.

It sounds like there is a fault code which is being thrown up and the battery disconnect is resetting it and allowing you to start the car, only for the code to return and prevent starting the next time.

Can you get the codes read? It will point to the problem then. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Thanks will have a go at it and clean the terminals. I doubt it will do much.

Glad we can rule out the transponder.


Yes, the battery disconnect is resetting the fault code and allowing key to turn for ignition start, how do I get the codes?


I am about to go try and start her up again, disconnect battery, wait 10 mins, connect and try the key again.

Will try the spare just in case. Again not much will change because if 10 minutes later I can use the key ignition switch

and the steering wheel locks then the problem should be elsewhere where?

get the battery changed IMO

same happened when I needed a new battery

2nd attempt to remove (-) terminal on battery , wait 10 mins, reconnect and turn key switch, engine on success.
Was worried as previously read this attempt is only possible once.

Changing battery and hope all goes well.

Went to a battery shop down the road, took a reading on the existing battery, (attached pic) guy said battery low. Previous owner did mention its best to change the battery (over 2 years old), so went ahead and changed it as it doesn't cost much, just under £70 all incl.


Started her up, worked fine…reached home, parked up, turned off, keys out….
keys back in, tried switch her on ..and saw that one coming..


After breaking a few sweats under 45 degrees of sun and running around finding a battery…back to where it all started..


Now what, help please?

although for an earlier model this MAY help you

http://www.blackbox-solutions.com/photos/L322lock.pdf

good luck - you really need to get a code reader though as it would help to determine the issue

Thank you for the response dingg1. Looks great but not sure I want to go down the drilling route.

Alternator is working fine and the new battery voltage is showing OK on the green marker as per the reader at the battery shop.

Could you PM me some links and prices on code readers please? ones that rad out the fault and delete it, comes in handy I guess, based on the symptoms at the time.


Anyone with final advice please? Seems like I might have to take her in to the dealer, $120 for a read and diagnosis…



Best,
Mohaned

I wouldn't mind trying screen shot attached.


But again, would it work for the 2008 Models, sorry, no idea..


If it does work, for how long?

I'm starting to think that the mechanism that unlocks the key is maybe the problem. When the transponder is "seen" by the immoblizer reader, it disengages the steering lock and the key lock (allowing the key to turn). You can hear that mechanical noise when the key is very close to the ignition switch.

What could have happened that over time, the heat and the dust have clogged the mechanisms a bit and they are not moving smoothly i.e. you can't do anything as the unlocking bits aren't moving (far enough) out of the way.

So that is one thing you could do, is open up the dash and see if that is the problem but before you do that, listen when you are moving the key close to the ignition lock and listen for sounds that indicate that it is trying to unlock. If no sound at all the problem may be transponder / immobilizer ECU related although I'm not sure if the ECU programming would allow for a simple battery disconnect to help there.

Anyway, also make sure you try both keys and make sure the keys are fully charged (there is a charging coil in the ignition lock and key that charges the key batteries if I'm correct). However if the key batttery is low, the central locking would stop first I think.

If the immobilizer/transponder unlock the steering wheel but you can't turn the key, then the key or lock may have worn too much and that is causing your problem.

Hope the rambling post helps a bit  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

The key transponder is passive Eugene (works on magnetic codes i think) so does NOT need key battery power to work sir

Craig, on the older one I know but on the newer ones I noticed that it was soldered onto the PCB, so assumed that was because it needed battery power. I took the passive one out of my old style key and put in in my flip key I got through Daveo . I do have a few newer style keys with the soldered on transponder . That does not mean that I am saying that you are incorrect Craig, just that it could be an issue if it was a powered transponder (which I agree is unlikely). MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Ahh... Hadn’t taken a newer key apart Eugene so i stand corrected sir