All fault codes are pointing to the fuel pump as the problem for my FBH, no ticking, so no workie.

I had a look at removing when I took my rear suspension and subframe bushes apart, but it is in such a stupid place and connected up in a way that I just left it. Couldn't get it out of its rubber housing either.

Best access route? From the inside or drop the subframe and get at it from the outside?

So to remove, simply cut the fuel pipes either side and make up a connector pipe to refit? I don't have the fancy clamp fitter that is used to connect up to the pump either end.

How to get it out of its holder / rubber housing?

Images of actually doing this would be great! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

cant help with acsess to removal JO but i do i know the pump rusts onto the rubber bracket and they never come off in one piece, its a case of cutting it off, i would relocate the pump and fit a bit of pipe inplace of the pump,or if you did not want to relocate it, cover it in grease prior to refitting

i retro fitted my FBH and located the pump under the plastc trim that hides the brake and fuel lines between the chassis and sill

nige

Good idea ironhorse, thanks .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

i have no fuel getting to my FBH either and talking to french mike he thinks ecu board but then again i do also have the fault where the fan comes on the FBH if i open a door etc so worth me getting ecu fixed.

Be interested to see any picture etc you take as i may end up checking this at somepoint

I'm trying to get to the bottom of why my FBH doesn't fire up too. FF was in for MOT and some service work earlier this week and I asked them to see what codes were generated... none.

They said they all of the components work individually but when selecting system start the fuel dosing pump is not operating.... I've just dropped French Mike a note - hoping it could be the common PCB fault...., as in pump not getting the signal to start rather than getting the signal but not capable....... it sounds like you've already done the same.

Cheers, Jon.

There's not much space up there where it is mounted. I removed ours from underneath working between the prop shaft and exhaust pipe.
Remove the electrical connector first, press down the clip and prise the connector off with a small screwdriver.
The crimp ring securing the pipe nearest the front of the vehicle is a pain. I removed this by inserting a small right angled pick tool and levering it open. The rear pipe from the tank clip can be removed with pliers. Pull both pipes off then you can remove the pump.
Remove it from its steel mounting by prising the rubber section out of the mounting with a small screwdriver. It is very fiddly but can be done.
When fitting it back in place, half inset it back in the mounting and push the rubber back in place with the small screwdriver. A small jubilee clip can be used to fasten the pipe back in place of the crimp ring. Put the rear pipe back and with pliers re-fit the spring clip. Then connect the electrical connector.
With practice it takes 5 minutes to remove and replace.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

is the electrical connector one of the sealed jobs( so shouldn't be corroded?) also why did you remove the pump was it faulty? I suspect once out it you can put 12 v to it to see if its working?

I may have a look at the pump first before sending the ecu off

Thanks for all the tips and advice. Now hopefully it will warm up a bit, I can get it out on the ramps and have a crack at it. Think I may well move it to inside the tank cover, but as mbmarkyb says, first thing is to see if it works, before heading to the pcb repair! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Let us know how you get on Joe ( with some nice piccies please)

If you want to try and see if the pump works before removing it.
Remove battery and battery tray. you will also need to remove the fixings for the rear half of the wheel arch liner. There is a mounting point for the FBH bracket underneath the battery tray. Use a lamp to see it.
Remove the plug from the FBH nearest the front of the vehicle, it has three wires to it. The supply to the pump is on pin six, coloured black with a red tracer. Pins one and two are light coloured wires.
Using a set of jump leads to the battery on the floor, connect to -ve and the ground stud on the suspension mount. Obtain some thin wire and insert this into pin six on the plug. Connect +ve to battery and quickly touch the other end of the +ve jump lead.
You should hear the fuel pump click. Do this a few times. If it clicks the pump is working. If you can manage to disconnect the supply line to the FBH you can check if fuel is spilling out of the pipe. No fuel could mean a blockage.
Another way to possibly get the FBH to fire up before you remove it is to wire a 5 watt bulb in parallel with the heater plug (read on another forum), this fools the heater into thinking that the glow plug is within tolerance (resistance). It starts off as a glow plug to fire up the heater, when the heater is fired up, it changes to a flame sensing device. More often than not it can be the glow plug at fault. Might be worth a try before removing the PCB.
You can get glow plugs separate from the burner assembly, but they are hard to come by.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

Hi thanks for the excellent info Steve,

Is this correct for my 2008 model as I was told the battery tray does not come out?

May be easier to get at by removing the LF wheel and inner wing? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Vaz,
With the battery and tray removed is there enough room to get the PCB out leaving the FBH installed?
Cheers, Jon.

@jon3939.
Yes there is enough room to work on the FBH with battery tray removed. Don't forget though the mounting post underneath the tray for the FBH bracket that you have to undo before lifting the tray out.
For future maintenance work I might consider fitting a long bolt to the FBH bracket, removing the mounting post and drilling a hole. This then can be secured with a nut to the tray, enabling any work done to the FBH by just removing the tray. This saves you from removing the wheel arch liner.

@J evro.
Not sure of the 2008 model as I have never played with one of those. Craig or Dan might be able to advise on that.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

Thanks,

Craig /Dan .....any ideas for the 2008 model ?