Hi, given that all that's required for this job is releasing 2 nuts on each drop link, pulling out the old drop link and inserting the new drop link before tightening the 2 nuts back up...

Hopefully, someone can give me a constructive tip please regarding the commonly described Anti Roll Bar Drop Link or Link Stabilizer Bar as Land Rover call it (Part No. LLR030047, part pictured below)?


I'm trying to remove the old driver's side front drop link. The top nut comes off fine but I can't get the bottom nut to move at all. I've tried WD40, a socket (which has sheared the nut such that socket is useless on it now), I've tried grips that just slip and I've tried an 18mm open ended spanner, all to no avail.

The ringed end of the 18mm spanner isn't slipping when placed over the lower nut but as mentioned, this nut will not budge.

I do have spare M12 Hex nuts but am just wondering how to get this nut off so I can finish the job.

Is it likely to be a seized nut or something to do with load bearing down on the nut preventing it from being loosened?

Thanks in advance, hopefully

Last edited by pld118 on 25th Sep 2014 9:17am. Edited 4 times in total

Give it enough of a bash and it should shift, or get more leverage on it if you can, get some heat on it (serious heat), otherwise

Click image to enlarge

Heat it with a blow torch till it glows then give it a go with the spanner , if the nut has rounded you can get a rounded nut remover which will grip it , or as I had to do on the wife's mx5 drop links cut through with a grinder or powered hacksaw .

Or go for the mk1 hacksaw and elbow grease as per joe 90's pic

Thanks. Manual hacksaw methinks based on my limited arsenal of tools.

2 questions please:

1. If I jack the car up (not in off road height) and put the car on axle stands to take the strain completely off the suspension components should the drop link come off and the new one go on fine once I've hack sawed the stuck nuts off (I keep reading to make sure it's in off road setting to ease off some tension but think that's for people not jacking the car up to do the job)?

2. Also, I bought some 12M replacement nuts at Brabbin & Rudd and although they seem identical size to the existing, the existing top nut will easily screw on a few turns by hand whereas the Brabbin & Rudd one only turns about once and then gets stuck, necessitating a socket or spanner. Could the Brabbin & Rudd ones be too tight and maybe sheer or damage the new drop link spine?

Thanks again

When I did mine I did one side at a time. To take strain off bottom Link I put a bottle jack under fitting and jacked it up slightly enough so that there was a bit of slack in the link so it was easy to remove. Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

Did mine with wheels on on the ground Ryan.

Bit of heat will work ok, let the wd have a while then extend your spanner with another ring spanner to get some extra leverage.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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try a nut spliter have hawkeye diagnostics for l322 td6 in the manchester area ,pm for deatalis.

Thanks all for a really helpful response. Will goto the lubricant/ heat method (need to by a blow torch unless a hair dryer will do it

And if that method doesn't work, will then resort to hacksaw or nut splitter!

Top nut came off no problem as well. Have also tried the lower passenger side drop link nut and it seems welded on too!

The replacement nuts they sold me were actually not of the correct type but I did call in on spec and without the replacement part or original nut. Took the new drop link to them this afternoon, they checked/ sized a perfect fit Hex nut, albeit not a flanged nut but they did have some cracking washers to compliment the nuts instead



Last edited by pld118 on 20th Sep 2014 2:48am. Edited 1 time in total

Air wrench will remove it

I don't mean to state the obvious sir, but it sounds like you need some bigger/better kit! If your going to attempt these tasks then you really do need to invest some of them savings your making into some quality tools sir

Absolutely no offence meant my friend

Start with a good set of 6 sided impact sockets & a decent breaker bar

So I listened to the comments and took Craig's sound advice on board, adding some tools and kit to my existing kit and here's what I bought, all to free one M12 Hex nut (accepting that items bought will be a longer term investment)!

'Advanced Professional Breaker Bar 18" 1/2" Drive' - £18.99, Halfords:

The breaker bar was no use by the time I'd bought the new tools and kit to tackle the seized driver's side lower Hex flange nut to the ARB drop link because I'd already partially sheared the nut using a 12 point socket and ratchet (12 point socket is no use for seized nuts like this as the socket just spins under heavy load which can damage the outer nut).

Even with my new tools and kit it took 2 hours constant and very hard graft to free the seized nut via a combination of penetrating fluid and 'Plus Gas'; Blowtorch heat; the nut splitter; a junior hacksaw and many many blades; a small lump hammer, cold chisel and a long flat headed screwdriver; and finally a pair of adjustable grips on the nut to turn it whilst holding the opposite side on lock with an 18mm spanner.

What a great feeling it was and what a relief when that nut eventually turned

It really was a doddle to remove the old and fit the new drop link after the nuts were removed

Here is the comparison between the top nut that came off relatively easily versus the bottom nut which I had to butcher to get off (the top nut on mine also had a washer - pictured - on the other side of of the drop link and yet the bottom nut did not?):

Nice damage

And yes that is correct about the washer, only one .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

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