First of all I'm new this is my first post, probably of many, newly purchased l322 is my fourth land rover in the last ten years all of which have had they're own issues/quirks be it the extensive restoration my RRC needed to get an mot or the air suspension headache on the p38! Which has led me into the stressful venture that is owning an l322!

Anyway, bit about the car it's an 02 4.4 v8 on LPG and just got a few questions I want to run past those of you with experience before I start buying bits on eBay and hoping I've guessed correctly and it fixes the faults as no doubt someone on here has done that before!!!

1) how does the air suspension work? Jump in doors all closed no messages on dash the only was light on is the amber led at the normal position. Turn the knob clockwise and the extended height led flashes with the normal led still illuminated but nothing actually happens. The car doesn't raise, the compressor doesn't cut in no warnings come up. After a short while 30 seconds maybe, I panicked and turned the knob anti clockwise back to normal position. Then the compressor cut in for maybe ten seconds then went quiet.
I've checked fault codes and all I have is 50 can bus fault which according to google means very little. So I am unsure where to go next really. On my p38 I gambled at a rebuilt compressor on eBay for £100 and all was good. Only an l322 pump is nearly three times this and I would like to check things properly first, any pointers? If it is compressor fault anyone used the 20quid seal kits on eBay?

2) drivers rear door doesn't unlock on remote or the button on the dash, although once opened it will lock via remote, are these cars prone to broken wires in the door jam or should I just get hold of a latch unit and go from there?

3) that bloody electronic steering coloum is driving me mad, it doesn't work and just makes a horrible whirring noise, I read on here that it can simply be disconnected, how do you access the plug removed the upper and lower coloum trims and something in there or is there a fuse to pull or what?

4)how easy is the cluster to remove as I have a few pixels not working, again guy on eBay does it for about 100notes but there's a few people doing it, any reccomendations?

5) got a famous noise from the old m62 from my experience of working with bmws I am 90% sure it's vanos pulley bank one rattling but want to try replacing chain tensioner. It looks a nightmare to get at any tips/pointers spoke to local dealer about it and he said they've never done one and don't even have a part number and I should call BMW for further advise, again a lot of googling this subject suggests this part has been revised many times which to me suggests early level parts have issues, I don't think it's my noise but for 100£ it's worth a gamble saves me stripping it if it does fix it, I've already tried changing the oil to magnetec 5w/40 but mad little to no difference, again any views?

6) final concern is, sometimes when selecting park or drive I loose the p or d lamp on the dash and it comes up trans fail safe mode. Am I right to suspect the xyz switch on the box probably needs a clean with some electrical contact cleaner or something more expensive?

7) one other item, servicing these beasts, when is the recommended interval for diff and transfer boxes?

Thanks in advance, I know I have a few issues but I like land rovers, I like projects, I have use of a workshop and tools and got the car for a cheap price so far even with the issues I'm very very happy with it!!

Welcome to the world of L322!
I can't say I have experienced the previous two versions of Range Rover although I started out looking for a Classic but couldn't find a decent one for under £5k (they were either rubbish chassis, good body or vice versa!). Then I considered a P38 but was warned off by an Indy so ended up getting an early L322 like yourself. I don't think there is such a thing as an L322 that is problem free, after all they are Land Rovers

Anyway back to the plot:

1) The air suspension works how you describe, solid light for the current mode then flashing light for the selected height which goes solid when reached. Raising to off road height can take over minute, it shouldn't take more than 2-3 mins (it depends on what the height has been calibrated to and pump efficiency etc.). If it's taking longer it could be a pump or an air leak somewhere, you can have a leaking airbag and still raise it but slowly, mine would sit at standard height all day long but a split in the air bag opened up when going into off road height. There are also the height sensors and valves to consider. Have you tried lowering it into access mode from standard height then trying raising it?
The pump will pump up a reservoir and it's the reservoir that provides the initial change, the pump won't kick in straight away but it should be fairly quick to come in. The pump will kick in to top up the reservoir and provide direct lift.
You can rebuild the pump, I did mine with kit from a guy on here who had access to Wabco factory parts. That did include a new cylinder head so bit more pricey than just the £20 piston rings on ebay but still £200 less than a new unit.
Anyway just try letting it get up to off road height before condemning anything.

2) I would check the mechanism before condemning the C/L motor, a link is probably more likely to have popped off. Does it lock off the remote/dash button? Incidentally to save a lot of hassle later on make sure your drivers door unlocks with the key in the door. Simple fix if it doesn't but a pain if your remote dies and you can't get in.

3) The steering column automatic movement on entry/exit (Easy Access) can be turned off using a diagnostic tool such as the IID tool or a dealer can do it for you. It still keeps the normal adjustment via the stalk. I turned mine off as I didn't want it failing and getting stuck in some stupid position, they tend to be prone for little plastic stops/bits breaking and sticking at maximum adjustment ranges.

4) I've done the pixel repair on mine, a bit of a long process and not for the faint hearted but all working now. I bought a new ribbon cable from www.akspeedo.com , £18. They can also do the repair for you.

5) VANOS rattle etc etc. I'm just going through the same thing on mine although mine has a knocking noise which I've hopefully narrowed down to the timing chain guides, a known issue on the BMW M62 engine. I also have the VANOS rattle (two separate issues) on start up on occasion, this is different to the timing chain noise and is a classic noise you know if you've experienced other BMW's.
As a hopeful quick fix to my chain noise I installed a new main timing chain tensioner a few weeks ago, made no difference to mine but for the sake of £45 was worth a try. If you want to try it on yours then you're in luck: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic25536.html bargain at £30 and is the correct part (appeared a week after I bought mine...damn!). You also need a new crush washer on the outside. Check out youtube for M62 timing chain tensioner swap for details on changing, on the L322 you just need to remove the MAF and intake pipe to help get access.
The new tensioners are a different design with a longer but weaker spring, possibly to help out with the plastic timing chain guide issue.
VANOS rattle can sometimes be quietened down with changing the oil, which is what you've tried. If that doesn't work then you can either just live with it (doesn't hurt) or fix it. Fixing it permanently means replacing the VANOS gears (about £600-800 each I think!) or you can rebuild them with a kit from Besian Systems in the US. The kit includes redesigned and replacement seals as it's the worn seals inside the gears that often cause the rattle (slop). There are a few other things that can contribute to the VANOS noise such as the oil check valves but as all the bits that can cause the noise are in the same rough location its worth changing the whole lot in one go. I have a kit coming from Besian and plan to rebuild mine plus redo the timing chain guides. It's not an easy job to either as you need special tools to set up the timing and I believe dealers quote 40 hours to do the timing chain guides although a lot of people who have done it suspect it must include lots of tea breaks!
So in short if you can live with the VANOS noise do so. A new timing chain tensioner will not stop VANOS noise, it's a different issue.

6) Could well be a faulty Park Inhibitor Switch which is the same as what you call the xyz switch. I would get the fault codes read and if it points to the switch then get the switch tested using RRPhil's guide, http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic25761.html . Its a sealed unit (riveted so might be able to 'recon' with cleaner) and are not cheap, ask me how I know The contact track wears out and they can suffer water damage so I went for a new unit instead of an unknown condition/age 2nd hand unit off ebay.

7) Not sure on service intervals on fluids, Wiki might have it, if not then the Wiki has workshop manual link which will have it. Any vehicle new to me gets them all changed anyway then I know it's done. Transfer box fluid is special, Castrol BOT 26 FMB1 (STC4861) or buy it as Special Transfer Box fluid from LR for twice the price.

Not bad, 6 out of the 7 are problems/fixes I've had or done! What do I win?

Cheers for the reply, glad you managed to do the chain tensioner from up top, i did wonder if it could only be accessed from underneath, gives me a bit more confidence, lol. The initial clatter on start up I am not worried about, I believe. This is fairly normal and the few 3 and 5 series bmws I have had have done this. It's the tick tick tick tick noise at idle that I would like to cure, as I said previously I am 90% sure its bank one inlet cam vanos pulley chattering away due to internal seal failure but I am willing to gamble/hope/pray a replacement chain tensioner will fix it. Unlikely I know but if it works then I've saved myself a lot of work/money. Incidentally I priced up the vanos cam pulley from local lr dealer and it was about 280£.

Oh the fault code for transmission was transmission range sensor circuit malfunction prndl input p0705