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To complete my conversion i safety removed all existing bolts and screws and stored them in order so i could re-use them again. The only new bolts/screws i used were the 4 that hold the bumper to the bumper bracket.
To begin the conversion start by removing the under engine plastic tray and remove a couple of plastic nuts from the passenger side front wheel arch liner to allow it to bend to give access to the washer fluid tank. Then carefully remove the 3x screws holding the front grill to the body.
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The headlights are held in with a 3x screws that need to be removed and the headlight will then slide out. The upper plastic headlight bracket (attached using 2 bolts) also needs to be removed as this is not required for the latest 10/12 headlights. Keep the bolts as one is required to fasten the new headlight to the top rail. Repeat this for both sides.
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Now its time to remove the main front bumper. Reach behind the wheel arch liner you have loosened to gain access to the washer fluid tank and remove the headlight washer pipe from the pump. (have a bucket ready as washer fluid will come pouring out if it isn't empty)
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The bumper is held on to the bumper bracket and crash bar using 6x screws (4 at the top and 2 under the front spoiler) Once these screws have been removed carefully prise the bumper edges away from the wings and the front mud flaps, you will need someone to help you do this as there are lots of connections to undo once the bumper is free.
Disconnect the front fog lights, 4x parking sensors and carefully full the bumper towards you, the bumper should be now completely free of the car.
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Now the bumper is removed you need to start the process of completely replacing the washer task system. The parts lists is above, a new tank and pumps are required because of the redesigned style of the headlight washer jets. The older system is not able to provide the force required for the new jets.
Start by removing the windscreen and rear window pipes and the electrical connections to the pumps. I recommend that you label the pipes and electrical connections so you know where they need to go back.
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You also need to disconnect the fluid level sensor at the bottom of the tank. (you can reuse this sensor in the new tank if you like, it can be quite tricky to remove but it does come out with a little care)
Then you need to remove the filler pipe and breather hose, these come off with a sharp pull upwards.
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The tank is held on to the car using 2 bolts remove these and the tank will lift free of the car.
The new tank is quite a bit bigger than the original tank and comes without any parts attached.
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You need to build the new tank by fitting the grommets and pumps before fitting to the car using the same mounting bolts and bracket position.
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Before you fit the new headlight washer pump you need to shave a small part of the pastil housing to allow the original electrical connector to fit.
Before modification
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After modification
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Once you have built the tank and fitted the tank to the car, connect the windscreen and rear window pipes and all the electrical connections. To enable the headlight washer pump to operate with the new headlights you need to bridge the Yellow/Black wire and Brown/Grey wire on the old LH side headlight washer cable. You will need to release the cable clips and some plastic insulation tape to get the fluid level sensor cable longer as the sensor is in a different place on the new style tank and the cable is not long enough.
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Now for the wings.
Start by removing the wing vent which is held in with 2 screws (1 top, 1 bottom) the bottom screw is hidden behind the plastic body panel below the vent. To remove the panel open the car door and with a sharp pull the panel should release. You can now carefully remove the vent.
The wing is held on to the body with a number of screws and bolts along the top of the wing and behind where the wing vent was, there is a bolt behind the lower plastic body panel which is a pain to get too. There is also 2 bolts on the inside of the wing where the headlights were.
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Carefully remove the indicator and disconnect the electrical connector.
The wing will then lift away from the body without any further force.
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If you are re-using your existing wings then to accommodate the newer style of wing bumper mounts you need to un-bolt the original plastic mounts from the wing. Then because the new style plastic mounts are a different shape you need to use a grinder to carefully remove the inner skin of each wing.
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Then used a fast setting resin glue to initially secure the new bracket to the wing then used a flexible adhesive/sealant to build up a strong bond to the wing. (i had to remove the wings twice as in the end the resin and flex wasn't strong enough to cope with road bumps etc.. so i used some fibreglass to permanently fix the bracket to the wing. I would recommend you do this from the start to save having to remove the wings again)
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When gluing the bracket you MUST! ensure that the gap between the wing and the bracket is maintained as the bumper edge slots into this for a good body fit. (you will understand what i mean here when you see your wing and bracket together)
You can now reverse this process and refit the wings to the car. Make sure that the wheel arch liners sit on the inside of the lip of the wing.
You need to remove the original plastic bumper mount that sits on top of the crash bar and install the new 2010/12 style mount. This is held on with a couple of bolts and is easy to remove.
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You also need to trim the passenger side wheel arch to allow it to fit now you have fitter the bigger washer tank. I just used a small hack saw and carefully removed the plastic upturn part of the liner.
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I did this with the bumper on but it would have been much easier to do it when the bumper was still off the car.
Now to the exciting part.......the wiring.
I started by modifying the fog lights and parking sensor wiring before attempting the headlights.
For the parking sensors and the front fog lights you need to purchase the 2010 wiring loom (part number above) as the connectors are different for the later PDC sensors and fog lights.
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Because the original wiring loom is different i found the easiest thing was to cut the new connectors off the new loom and solder them to the original loom. I did this for both the parking sensors and the fog lights.
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The fog light wiring is a straight forward cut and solder to match the live and ground wires.
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The parking sensors are a little more complicated as the cable colours are different.
Original - New Connector
Yellow - Yellow
Green - Blue
Brown - Green
Now the easy wiring is now complete I moved on to the 2 headlight connectors that i purchased from powerfuluk.
Because my car had the 2006 headlights already i could have reused the headlight connectors, but to make things easier and to save me having to re-pin the existing connectors i labeled the original wiring and cut the old connectors off.
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If you are doing a straight 2003 - 2010/12 upgrade your wiring connectors will be different to mine as 2003 vehicles had 3 individual headlight connectors where as the later headlights only used 1 connector for everything.
My complete wiring diagram. Please note that on 2003-2006 range rovers the colour of the wiring is different for LH and RH connectors. See the diagram for more info.
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The connectors from powerfuluk were really easy to solder on to the original wiring and the extra length of wiring on the new connectors made things very easy to do.
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Because the new headlights use LED's rather than actual filament bulbs you have to add a resistor that i purchased from powerfuluk between the indicator live and ground to prevent the indicators double flashing.
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Once both sides are complete you are ready to start assembly and test your workmanship.
The new headlights don't require any upper mounting brackets like there predecessor did and use one of the original bolt holes to secure them to the top bar. There is also 2 screws to hold the light in, one that screws into the new plastic bumper mount and one on the new plastic wing mounts.
Connect the newly wired connector and test.
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Unlike all previous versions of the L322 Range Rover the 2010/12 face requires that the headlights be fitted before the bumper. Headlights cannot be fitted or removed once the bumper has been installed.
Once you have fitted the headlights and tested they work correctly you are ready to fit the bumper. You will need someone to help you do this as you need to connect all the PDC sensors, fog lights and connect the washer jet pipe to the fluid tank pump while you fit the bumper.
Align the bumper to the body and mounts, connect all the electrical and pipe work connection then on the top of the bumper there are flat plastic tabs that have to slide into gaps on the bumper mount under the headlights. At the same time you need to carefully fit the bumper on to the wing mounts and ensure that the wheel arch liners go behind the lip of the bumper.
Once you have aligned and fitted the bumper and you are happy with the panel gaps on the wings the bumper is held in place by x4 screws that fasten it to the bumper mount.
Check that the parking sensors, fog lights and wash jets work now before going any further.
Now the last thing is to fit the main grill. The original grill was held in by just 3 screws, the new grill has 4 plastic tabs at the bottom and uses the 3 original screws. You need to fit grill inserts into the bumper mount to allow the new grill to clip in at the bottom then use the original screws to secure.
Fit new side vents to match your new 2010/2012 face
You have now completed the 2010/2012 L322 facelift.
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Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated 
Last edited by mattstevenson2005 on 23rd Aug 2016 6:18pm. Edited 11 times in total
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30th Mar 2014 10:22pm
planning on starting my front end conversion this weekend - fingers crossed I can work out the wiring of the headlamps from a 2004 and cutting out part of wing to fit the bumper bracket. Looking forward to the write up.
