Decisions, decisions.
Hi everybody
Has anybody had the Waxoyl treatment done on their Rangie???
I have a 2004, 3.0TD 6 Vogue and I'm considering having it done, the cost is great so I'm wondering does the treatment to the Chassis & cavity box sections really far out weigh the cost.
I have found 2 companies in the UK who offer this service, the cost is between £450 to £550!
This is a lot of money considering the job can be done by yourself if you have access to either an inspection pit or a decent ramp, and if you don't mind getting a little messy
A gallon can of Waxoyl in Halfords UK is £26.99 and for the smaller aerosol cans £9.99.
So the question is???? Bearing in mind the age of my vehicle, 10 years is the damage already done by the great British weather and our local authority's love for bloody ROCK SALT?
Is there much to Waxoyl underneath the Rangie? and does this job really warrant £550 of my hard earn't cash.
I have put the website links below of these companies, so please have a look and your views on this will be welcomed.
http://www.waxoyltreatment.co.uk/land-rover-waxoyl/
http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/intro/?gcl...Qgodzj2CAQ

If you are going to do it, you will need to do a fair amount of dismantling and preparation underneath. remove all the plastic coverings, inner wheelarchs, possibly bumpers etc, sand down the subframes, rust kill first, then apply waxoyl (probably by brush so you don't spray it everywhere). Not sure how you access the boxed in sections, but this might need some drilling and rubber plugs - but this could do more harm than good if they are well sealed.

I spend a fair amount of time staring at the underneath of my '02, and aside from the subframes (main and tubular) everything else appears to be in good nick.

I do have a plan for the above though.  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Hi Joe,
Yes it's a horrible job to do on your own, thats why I'm considering using a well known company who advertise in LRO magazine. This guy has great reviews and seems to come highly recommended.
Mine to looks good underneath so I'm going to sit and have a hard think on this one.

Personally, I wouldn't. If you've owned any kind of Land Rover vehicle before, I think you are "hard wired" to waxoyl. I've done it and had it carried out on several . . .
But, the FF is built like any other monocoque car. Yes, there will be surface corrosion on subframes and suspension components - but no more than any other modern car. Including any other alleged "premium" brand !
Regular washing with a underbody lance on your pressure washer is the best protection you can offer during winter.
I spend more time and effort cleaning the underside on mine !

 Where do you go after one of these . . . ?

Think your right Tug, bearing in mind she has already spent 10 years of her life open to natures elements.
Yes I've owned them all, series 111, RR classics x 3, Disco 1, P38A & now the L322.
Thanks for the advice.

I won't comment on what's already been established regarding whether you apply any rust preventative coating, but I will say that, in my own experience on my own Land Rovers, Dinitrol is orders of magnitude better than Waxoyl.

So, for example, the rear upper tailgate and rear arches on my own FF have seen application by Dinitrol using one of their 'searching' formulas that creeps and flows far more than sticky Waxoyl, even in colder ambient temperatures.

The result is better rust penetration and a far easier and quicker job. Less messy, too. Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

I think the big problem with any rust treatment is finding a skilled operator to apply it. I've hear horror stories of drilling holes, etc. that make things far worse than they were before they started.

If you've got a VERY skilled operator, then no problem.

I like the idea of keeping everything very clean. Salt & snow on the car is nit a big problem at temperatures below freezing. Once you get above freezing (even a degree) is when the trouble starts.

I'm having it done for 150 in two weeks by my man at the garage you'd be better coming up here and having night in hotel still cheaper  _____________________________________________________
Zambezi silver Vogue Se unique

Joe90 wrote:

I do have a plan for the above though.

Had mine done by Craig - very pleased.

Scottyav wrote:

I'm having it done for 150 in two weeks by my man at the garage you'd be better coming up here and having night in hotel still cheaper

Got my kit for rustproofing mine ready to go as soon as the weather improves

anorakmark@gmail.com wrote:

Scottyav wrote:

I'm having it done for 150 in two weeks by my man at the garage you'd be better coming up here and having night in hotel still cheaper

Hi Scottya,
Can you PM me details, could be worth the travel for me.
Kind regards,
Mark.

Call Steve at the link previously posted phone numbers on there, it's a waxoyl mix with another sealant lasts for years and years and looks amazing _____________________________________________________
Zambezi silver Vogue Se unique

anorakmark@gmail.com wrote:

Scottyav wrote:

I'm having it done for 150 in two weeks by my man at the garage you'd be better coming up here and having night in hotel still cheaper

Hi Scottya,
Can you PM me details, could be worth the travel for me.
Kind regards,
Mark.

Call Steve at the link previously posted phone numbers on there, it's a waxoyl mix with another sealant lasts for years and years and looks amazing

49A, North Street
WS11 0AZ Cannock
Staffordshire
Phone:
01543 579050 _____________________________________________________
Zambezi silver Vogue Se unique

i do all my vehicles with black waxoyl mixed with hydraulic oil which seeps into every seem etc and just top up the exposed areas every year
its a messy job and really needs to be done on a ramp so you can approach the area required from several angles what you dont want to do is seal the rust over as it will continue to rust underneath any non breathable coating  1990 3.5 v8 defender
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