Tonight, whilst sitting in traffic at a red light, I was sitting with the car in D with my foot on the brake. So shifted into N and put the handbrake on. As the revs dipped down below the usual idle before sorting itself back up to the correct idle speed like it usually does, I noticed the oil light flicker very faintly.

So, pulled into the closest light carpark and switched off the engine, left it a few mins and checked the oil, It was hard to actually see the level due to the dark coloured dipstick and limited light, but it appears to be on if not a smidge over max. Assuming the level was ok, I started it back up, no light, so continued. Few miles down the road, pulled up to more lights, popped it into N and the same thing happened, light flickering every now and again.

The engine sounds fine, no rattles or anything, but I'm still not sure if there's enough oil in as it's quite hard to get a proper reading on the dipstick due to it's stupid design. Am I right to be checking the level with the engine off or does the 4.4 need the level checked with the engine running? I was reluctant to put any more oil in just incase.

Like I say, I haven't noticed any strange noises, other than last weekend when the car had sat all week and hadn't moved, went to start it and it was noisy/rattley for a split second, I assume it's because all the oil had drained back to the sump?

Could it be a dodgey pressure sender? Or something worse like a pump or even a worn out engine, (88k with history, last oil change in Nov last year and has done approx. 3-4k since)

Help! 2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

Assuming your idle speed isn't too low I would investigate further in daylight. I'm not sure what the manual says about checking the engine oil on the BMW 4.4, but I would do this about 5-10 mins after shutting the engine off on level ground.

Under no circumstances should you check engine oil with the engine running - you will never get a reading as the oil pump will be sloshing it everywhere.

Let us know how you get on, and if necessary re-insert the dipstick after wiping it a few times (giving it a spin when fully home) to be absolutely sure of the level.

I always check at least three times before being satisfied the level is correct, because as you say, the design of modern dipsticks is pretty pants... especially with clean oil. Java with Ivory 2006 4.2 Supercharged. 23.5k miles - NOW SOLD!

Thanks for the quick response.

Idle speed sits bang on with the Air con on and off, it's only the momentary drop in revs from shifting from Drive to Neutral that causes it flicker by the looks of it.

I usualy get an oil change done as soon as I buy a car just to be on the safe side, but the garage I bought it off say it was done in late November, mind you, they also said it passed it's MOT fine with a worn out pair of drop links so I don't really trust his word. 2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

Never trust a 3rd party to have done the work prior to your purchase, even if you have an invoice as evidence.

I've had experiences and heard of many others where plugs / filters etc are supposed to have been changed but were'nt so I would suggest that you change the oil and filter as soon as you can. Measure how much oil you get out and compare it to the volume required for an oil change.

If it still flickers after that, personally I'd consider changing the pressure sender, removing the sump and checking the pickup pipe is clear.

I've had a similar experience on a Classic RR, the light flickered on at a junction and my heart sunk to my boots... I backed the sender out a couple of threads and started the car to get a good indication that there was pressure - oil up the sleeve. A new sender sorted that.. However, I'm not sure where the sender is on the 4.4 so I'm not sure how easy that trick is to do.

HTH, DC

Oil pressure lights always give you a heart attack! My first Land Rover had this too but when driving along (which is even scarier especially when you don't have the money to fix a poorly engine)

It turned out to be the oil pressure switch on the engine, I replaced it with a new one and it still came on, therefore I was convinced it was goosed but then a wise old sage (my dad) suggested replacing the switch again with another. Turns out that even a new switch could be faulty and the light went out and the engine was fine.

I doubt this is too serious, as it only happens when in Neutral idling.

I checked RAVE and it says to check the oil when engine is cold. If you have to do it when the engine is warm, let it sit for at least 5mins to allow the engine to drain back into the sump.

if you want any info from RAVE about things let me know. Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

On the 4.4, if the oil pressure actually drops, you will get a warnning on the dash along the lines of "low oil pressure, please shut down engine". I am therefore assuming there are two sensors, one "classic" and one ECU based.

Oh and I've always loved the idea of a light for oil pressure NOT. Once it's on for it's designed reason, it's too late! What happened to a gauge

If your idle speed had dropped below normal then this is the cause of your oil warning light. Simple as that.

Personally I would be more interested in why your idle speed dropped enough to cause low oil pressure (300 RPM ish?)

Have you changed/checked the PCV hoses? A leaky vacuum system is usually the culprit with a rough, uneven or low idle.

Dan 

Checked the level again this morning, it looks like it's above the max. mark on the dipstick, car started fine and ran smooth, no light flickering.

Dan - I had the PCV hoses replaced last month when I had the thermostat housing replaced. It could be that one of the hoses hasn't been replaced, maybe one that's tucked down the back of the engine?

I rang the Land Rover service centre in Gateshead this morning, explained what happened, they suggested doing an oil & filter change and going from there. Suppose it makes sense as I'm not sure exactly when it was last done, so the car's booked in for Thursday morning.

These are the guy's I'm going to try..

http://www.teamvalleylandrover.co.uk/

They were recommended by a customer of mine, e said they were 10 times better than the main dealer!

Also, thanks for all the replies, much appreciated.  2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

An oil change and filter is always wise.
I had a problem with the oil light on my diso flickr. I removed the electric plug from the oil pressure switch, cleaned the connections and inspected that there had been none rubbing of the cables so the signal in some instances would go to earth and in that circumstances get the oil light to flickr or light up.
after cleaning the electric plug and reinstalled it there hasen't been any flickr.
A wise man said to me that if the oil pressure starting to be worn, the oil pressure switch would let some oil through the position where the electric plug is fitted and then cause in some instances the signal to go to earth and the oil light will light up.

Not sure if this is the problem for you, but do an oil/filter change and check to see if there some oil at the oil pressure switch.

Thanks, I'll mention the switch when I take it in. 2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

Dropped the car into the service centre this morning, one of the guys has just range me to say they're busy with the oil change, but, the oil filter has collapsed in on itself and is causing a bit of a problem as far as removing it is concerned. He said it doesn't look like it's been changed in a very long while and is totally blocked causing the light to flicker at idle when hot.

So fingers crossed it's just something as simple as that. If so, it'll be one hell of a releif.

He also mentioned that my car hadn't had the front diff recall carried out, which I knew about. When I rang Land Rover about it a couple of months back, they said I would have to pay for the recall myself, but according to the guy at the garage, it will be at no cost to me. So Ive given the go ahead for them to do it. So it will just be a case of them getting the parts in stock then taking the car down to get sorted. So far, I'm very impressed with them. 2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

DeltaC wrote:

Never trust a 3rd party to have done the work prior to your purchase, even if you have an invoice as evidence.

Yeah, fingers crossed!

Had a phone call to say the car is ready, but ideally should have the oil filter housing replaced as it's been damaged somewhere along the line, although they say that the oil pressure is perfect again.

Delta - Sicne buying the car I've had the PCV hoses replaced, new thermostat housing, now the oil and filter and the diff recall hopefully by next week.

So all should be well with the car again  2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

Woohooo, it's back and good as new!


Sounds alot smoother too, although that could be just placebo. Anyway, I'm more than happy with the service centre.  2006 Mercedes CLS
1991 Retro-style Mini
But really finding it hard to fight the urge for a S/C...

Great news! Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB