am wondering about battery management systems
and the claims that dealers make about the battery management system being a dealer re-set job if you change battery or battery type.
AGM requires about 14.7 v to charge
if lead / acid installed - what will this need to be changed to? 14.4 ?
are there any other changes?

btw...not that i believe the changes are necessary....everyone here seems to say you can just replace whatever is in your FFRR with a 110AH battery - and away you go !

I thought about fitting an AMG batterie but like you I questioned the ability of my( older model) alternator to recognise the higher demand of the AMG so I went my own way and put in a 110 Ah Leisure batterie , my thinking being it would have the deep capacity to run my FBH without trouble and being a petrol V8 it seamed not so important to have quite as much cold cranking as a desisel . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Hum, i had an AGM battery fitted about 2 years ago - garage didn't 'change' anything it was a straight replacement.
Not had any problems with it [touch wood!!] even through some severe weather conditions...

I put an AGM battery in my last car and had it around a year (through two winters) without any problems or dealer mods?

A quick tip - don't try and swap it with the bonnet in the normal position - use the service position.

Dealer replaced my dead battery with new one under warranty on my 2012 TDV8. Honestly previously did not check what I had there, but he later claimed that it was an ordinary flood type and not AGM. Altough now they gave me an AGM type, but only 90 Ah. When I was asking for 110Ah, he told that 90 is the official on this 2012 4,4 TDV8. Moreover I don`t think he would be doing any reprogramming, update etc...
Anyone knows what should be the Ah rating in my vehicle? 4.4 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue MY12
from Hungary

Standard fit IIRC has always been 90ah Really should be 110ah but this is a tight fit so an extra 60seconds on the production line to shoe horn in.

The AGM batteries will require a lot more juice to charge up as they try to charge up as quickly as possible as they are great for start-stop systems for this reason and generally matched up to a higher output alternator on such cars. On an older car they should still be fine but could stress an old alternator diode pack a bit more than it was designed for but being an FF there was always plenty of scope built into most parts so they should cope OK.

The battery charge controller will only get updates done by the dealership guys. There are only a few tools i know of that can edit it directly, or like i've said before disabled most of its functions with no ill effects as tested a good member on here on his new disco4  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Just checked my battery and its an Exide 90 AH AGM with a Jaguar Land Rover logo so assume its from new?

Checked my old RR battery (as I still have it in the garage after changing it three yeas ago and it was a Varta 110 AH with just the landrover logo - but I changed it to a Yuassa 110 AH AGM battery with no problems over two winters.

Strange that my old car was petrol with 110 AH and my new car is diesel with 90 AH?


My car i a 2010 MY

axle wrote:

I thought about fitting an AMG batterie but like you I questioned the ability of my( older model) alternator to recognise the higher demand of the AMG so I went my own way and put in a 110 Ah Leisure batterie , my thinking being it would have the deep capacity to run my FBH without trouble and being a petrol V8 it seamed not so important to have quite as much cold cranking as a desisel .

Thats strange as i thought they never fitted a 110ah Lead/Acid battery at all and that the standard 90ah one fitted was replaced with the AGM model to resolve Park Heat issues and then the timer reduced as well to help it live longer but also to factor in the short runs a lot of customers were doing allowing the AGM to get back upto full again quite quickly. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Simes I have previously read that but I am using a battery we use in the marine world that I have a lot of experience with where the plates are not that thick and have found that it copes with the much more complex requirement of a boat i.e., starting duties, deep cycle duties like running a heater and good steady voltage like running the navionics .
Like I have said earlier it's just an experiment and I have plenty marine batteries to play with , but so far it's working well  2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

I think the leisure battery is a good call with your petrol engine.
Modern petrol engines (especially a V have fired probably four times in the first half revolution so the cranking demand is bare minimum whereas a diesel in much greater added to the high demand of the pre heat glow plugs (which can be about 5 seconds on a relatively mild morning)
I wouldn't go deep cycle (leisure) with diesel

Just my two penneth!

leisure battery's shouldn't be used in a car due to its different construction,it might be worth having a read here where it explains it better,

http://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk...e-battery/ ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

At the risk of dragging things further off course a lead acid battery is a lead acid battery just different thickness and number of plates , a "starter " just has thin plates to give the biggest bang for your buck but sulfurate badly if you abuse them most "leisure " batteries have moderate plates thy are just a bit big and do just fine as a starter as well and some batteries have muckle thick plates and just can't dump the amps to cut it as a stater .
The one I'm using works fine its just big i.e., it stands higher than most .
But this topic is meant to be about AMG v Lead acid and AMG"s are much cleverer but so are Spiral cells to a lesser extent in that they resist sulfuration very well whilst still giving that big bang for starting but at a price ,you pays your money you take your choice .
The only thing you should not do is draw too deeply from a thin plated starter battery but now we have intelligent chargers that can even fix that if it's not too bad 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

seems to me that if I fit a lead acid battery to a system set up for an AGM
then instead of
you will soon have
because 14.7v used to charge the lead acid battery will overcharge it which leads to gassing and overheating and fairly soon a shagged battery
unless you can change the volt / charge settings in the regulator

Over charging is often used by a lot of battery chargers anyway. CTEK's do this as it helps get rid of the sulphation and bring back dying batteries  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.