With my ongoing gearbox problems (dash messages, won't go into low range, Testbook says "Shift error") it was time to remove and repair / replace the shift motor. Nothing in RAVE about this, but RRPhil has been most helpful with guidance on what to do.

Prep: You can do this on the drive. I put the car into offroad height, which was fine for my "slim" body to slide under the side steps. I can do this in normal height too - just. If you want position a jack or axle stands to prevent the car lowering on you.

You'll need an inspection lamp, a mirror, a 10mm socket with extension bar, and a flat bladed screwdriver or stiff knife. Maybe a hammer to tap the socket lever with if really tight, and an oily rag.


1. Disconnect the battery. Wait a few minutes to let car systems die.



2. Now dive underneath and get in position with all your tools. You will find the shift motor at the back of the gearbox on the left (looking from the rear of the car)



3. First job is to disconnect the multiplug, seen above and to the left of the motor housing. Turn the plastic screw fixing to the left and then once that is released pull back to release the multiplug. Poke the lead and plug up out of the way.



4. Next up undo the three bolts using your 10 mm socket and extension. I started with the easy ones, just loosening them, then finished with the third one, tucked away behind the multiplug connector. (This is what the mirror is for, just so you get an idea where it is). Remove all the bolts and put them somewhere safe. The bolts are pretty tight on, so you may need to tap with the hammer if you can't get them undone by hand.



5. Now the tricky bit, difficult to photograph and do it at the same time. Get your head right underneath the motor, and then gently start to pull the motor horizontally off the drive gear. If you can see the drive gear coming off too, then use a screwdriver to hold it in place while you remove the motor. Also, do your best to keep the motor in line as you pull it off. Mine came off nice and easy, and the drive gear stayed in place. You may get a little bit of oil, so get head out of the way at this point, and use oily rag to catch the drips / clean up.



See the position of the missing spline on the drive gear



6. The motor removed



7. The bolts and tools used



8. Tidy up and leave oily rag in place to catch any further oil.

9. Refitting should be a reversal of the process

10. Diagnosis and repair is beyond the scope of this tut. Check elsewhere on the forum for this: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic6992.html

All photos are in gallery here: http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=325

Thanks to RRPhil for lots of background info on this, and his expert guidance

{EDIT}

If you disconnect the battery to do this, remember to turn steering wheel lock to lock to setup DSC once you reconnect.

RRPhil recommends the gearbox manual calibration procedure after doing this:

1. Put fuse in no. 37 on main fuse board
2. Turn on ignition and select Neutral (you should get two dash messages - "Transferbox - Neutral" and "Neutral"
3. Turn off ignition and remove Fuse in 37
4. Turn on ignition and test shift from High/Low to Low/High three times
5. Road test shift from high to low at above 6mph but below recommended speed

{EDIT-2}

Useful LR workshop guide

http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/us...ferBox.pdf

{EDIT -3}

Have since learned, courtesy of powerfuluk, that you can spin the motor in situ if you put 12v across pins 9 & 10 .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Last edited by Joe90 on 4th Sep 2011 11:12am. Edited 3 times in total

in addition to Tims how to , here are some informative videos from powerfuluk,

remove...

test...

refit...  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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