At last! I thank you good Sir Mr Hallworth

weird bought that 2 years ago and it has never started mine tried on several occasion even aa man came out and tested it said waste of £120

If my mates top of the range snap on starter (£450) won't start my TD6 when completely flat I'm doubtful that halfords one will. I might be proven wrong?

A fully charged 90amp car battery after 5minutes wouldn't get mine kicking over. The only way is another vehicle as the alternator runs at full whack and you hear it the second the cable is put on when the engine is running and the revs drop and come back up. Its stronger pull than the ac on some vehicles... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I tried the Halfords one sometime ago when my batter was knackered ...

Ended up calling out Green Flag who used the following which I then purchased .. have used it a couple of time since to good effect.

http://www.mynewcheap.co.uk/products/detai...pack/2221/ Stephen Gazard

Range Rover L405 LWB SVA Overfinch / Bespoke
Maserati GT 2017
Maserati Levante Trofeo
Mercedes SL63 AMG
Mercedes S500L

Sorry for thread revival but the link to the halfords site no longer works. Is it this one: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/garage-eq...h-inverter ??

To give a bit of background, I purchased a Clarke Jumpstart 4000 pack last week but it had an issue. Every time I keyed my 2m radio up, it beeped. According to Clarkes 'technical' person I spoke to, there are 2 buzzers in it, one for wrong polarity and one for low battery and he had no idea which was beeping. He said it was a faulty unit (rather than something designed badly from an EMC perspective) and told me to get Machine Mart to replace.

Well they did without question and the new unit just arrived. Still sealed in the box I tested it and it has exactly the same issue. Clarke have stopped answering the phone now (and never replied to emails) so Machine Mart are collecting and refunding me but I still would like a jump pack.

The main reason I went for this one was that it could start my RR (3.6L diesel). Most only seem to claim up to 3.0L diesels.

Has anyone any other suggestions (hopefully better designed from an EMC perspective)?

Thanks.

Ian. Current: RR L322 2010
Past: RR L405 2017, RR L322 2012, 2008 & 2004, 2018 D5, 2016 Defender, 2011 D4, a few Disco2s, P38, RR Classic, couple of Disco1's, SIII SWB

Looks very similar will check mine which still works every time...

Mine id 40ah your link is 36ah

Thanks for that. Think I will go have a look at one.

Ian. Current: RR L322 2010
Past: RR L405 2017, RR L322 2012, 2008 & 2004, 2018 D5, 2016 Defender, 2011 D4, a few Disco2s, P38, RR Classic, couple of Disco1's, SIII SWB

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/35103915678...amp;ff19=0


This works for me.

Had wondered if they were snake oil or not. They don't look like they have enough 'poke' to start a large diesel. Have you had to use it yet? Current: RR L322 2010
Past: RR L405 2017, RR L322 2012, 2008 & 2004, 2018 D5, 2016 Defender, 2011 D4, a few Disco2s, P38, RR Classic, couple of Disco1's, SIII SWB

TBH chaps, the weakest part of any of these jump packs is the connections, i.e. the crocodile clamps.

I had a flat battery on a 3.6 TDV8 some time back, basically No1 son had left the RSE playing a DVD without the engine running. The AA's professional jump leads wouldn't start it, neither would my own jump leads which are the orange 35mm cables, properly thick ones.

Anyway, I removed the battery from the car and fitted the fully charged leisure battery off the caravan and it started first time. I then put the jump leads down to the car battery and left it run for 30 minutes, Changed batteries back over and all was well.

After that I fitted an Anderson connector so as to get round the croc-clamps issue so the car was effectively a plug-in affair. The other end of the cables now has ratchet clamps fitted and this arrangement works just fine. Look like normal croc clamps but ratchet on like mole grips.

So, in summary, if you fitted an Anderson connector to the car and also to the jumper pack it would probably work fine. The bay is your friend. Get high current ones, not the 50 amp jobbies. The actual differences in current rating is ONLY the size of cable it will accept. All the contact surfaces are the same but the solder buckets are different sizes.

ianmacd wrote:

Had wondered if they were snake oil or not. They don't look like they have enough 'poke' to start a large diesel. Have you had to use it yet?

Thanks Guys. Have ordered one of the antigravity ones although it looks like they have a less than 4ah battery in them. Will see how it goes. Current: RR L322 2010
Past: RR L405 2017, RR L322 2012, 2008 & 2004, 2018 D5, 2016 Defender, 2011 D4, a few Disco2s, P38, RR Classic, couple of Disco1's, SIII SWB