Now that the car is running great, it was time to take care of the paintwork. I'd tried to rid the car of swirl marks before by hand, using Farecla products but the outcome was always the same, it looked great from a distance, but utter pish up close. So I was in Ellon on business and on my way home nipped into Kintore to these guys:
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/ and I bought the kit to rectify my shoddy paintwork, see here:
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb...-cat1.html plus the Kestrel DAS 6 polisher, and snow foam + lance.
I started early Saturday morning, finishing around 7pm, and again on Sunday, getting it finished by 3.30pm. Once you see the before pictures, you'll understand why it took so damn long!

Before: every panel had the same level of marking, very, very poor but what can you expect on a car over 10 years old!

not too bad from a disctance

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Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Very impressive!  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Looks fantastic. The one thing RR can do is good paint that even when abused comes up a treat with some TLC

Aye, I'd been kidding myself on that it looked ok, but when in direct sunlight it looked awful. Only things left to do are the front bumper & I'll do the edges of the roof next weekend weather permitting. Well worth the effort, much cheaper than a respray! Had my mate ask me if I could do his jag, wonder how much I could charge

If the paint on the bumpers and the plastic on the bottom of the doors is all original you will find it much more difficult to remove marks. Just be careful you don't cause any heat damage trying

Think it is original paint, I had a wee mishap on the rear bumper, nothing major though, so will only use the less aggressive compound on the front, thanks for that, wish I'd know before

It needs to be an aggressive compound to cut through the swirls, but you have to keep moving the pad to stop the heat building up. Do an area until it starts heating up, move along and do another area, move along and do another area then go back to the beginning and start all over again. It can take a while

Thanks for the tip, it's certainly been an eye opener so far. Planning to,keep the car now that the mechanical side is ok now. Will try & get some better photos if the weather clears later in the week , very happy with the results so far. Now do I go the whole hog & do the entire roof? Christ ,I would need staging boards

You missed a bit...

Joking..

Very nice work, well worth the effort.

The roof isn't too bad to do, you don't need to be too fussy with it as nobody sees the swirls unless they are 8' tall, but you should give it a quick blast over and spend a little time on the paintwork just above the windows

Now this is my kind of thread. Excellent work - well worth the effort.

 Researching my first Range Rover purchase

Aye it takes a wee while to cut through the swirls. Was a wee bit cautious as I didn't want to blast through the clear coat!

Nice work Mr Tee - got me enthused to use all the gear I bought to do the same! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

You're pretty safe with a DA polisher - I'm sure you already know they're designed to stop rotating if too much pressure is applied, so they don't build up as much heat as a rotary can.

It's a good idea to draw marks on the back of the backing plate, so you can easily see if the pad is still rotating. That way, it's easy to see if/when you need to use less pressure. There's loads of videos on Youtube for anyone else who's a little nervous about trying polishing for the first time.

Mind you, you seem to have got the hang of it pretty well. Your car looks stunning. Researching my first Range Rover purchase

Wow