 | Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > Diff modification question ! |
 
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| S1NGH Member Since: 08 Apr 2009 Location: All over Posts: 40  
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Should be free afaik. |
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8th Jan 2010 7:27pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jun 2007 Location: UK Posts: 6372  
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It should be free as part of the Range Rover Assurance Programme, however if you car is not showing any signs of Diff problems I would not bother.
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8th Jan 2010 7:39pm |
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| td6 vogue Member Since: 31 Dec 2009 Location: essex Posts: 93 
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RRUK, this is whats worrying me as it has done only 33k miles and has never had one problem! In fact i have just had one side light bulb go recently and i was shocked to see a warning come up on the screen. |
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8th Jan 2010 8:02pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jun 2007 Location: UK Posts: 6372
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I was told by my Dealer that the failures of the front propshaft were usually seen at 3 years old or 60,000 miles.
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8th Jan 2010 8:12pm |
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| td6 vogue Member Since: 31 Dec 2009 Location: essex Posts: 93
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RRUK you may well be right! Thanks for your help will let you know when i have spoken to a dealer what i have done! |
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8th Jan 2010 8:19pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jun 2007 Location: UK Posts: 6372
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The reason the Dealers don't advertise the Assurance Programme is that its FOC work to you!
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8th Jan 2010 8:24pm |
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| GKP Member Since: 01 Aug 2009 Location: Hants Posts: 75 
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What?! I think you've been confudulated by too much information. The forward end of the front prop has a male splined end, the diff has a female splined receiver. Together they make a rotating slip joint, although the slip is measured in milimeters. The splines wear and when failure occurs all that happens is the prop spins inside the female receiver and makes a terrible din at the same time. The result is a complete loss of drive. The female receiver is attached to the diff input shaft using a single nut, however this nut is also used to set the preload on a crush spacer. This preload is what causes the main issue in any repair. Ideally the the preload should be set once and that's it, so the correct way of repairing would be to supply a complete new diff and a new front prop. However it is possible to remove and replace the female receiver in situ, but setting the correct preload on the securing nut is critical. (It is flippin' tight!) Too loose and the two roller bearings which support the input shaft will be allowed to move - with inevitable diff munching consequences. At no time can any splines enter the sealed diff casing to cause damage. There was an attempt at a solution when failures started happening, this involved nothing more than checking the alignment of the diff to the transfer box and lubricating the splines of both parts (of the sliding joint regularly and drilling a hole in the end of the front prop - reasons unapparent at the moment! The official LR fix is to replace the two parts of the sliding joint (the splined male prop and splined female receiver) with what is essentially a CV (constant velocity) joint. The fix is free of charge and shouldn't take more than a few hours to do. Not sure you should be reading this bit. |
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9th Jan 2010 9:59pm |
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| S1NGH Member Since: 08 Apr 2009 Location: All over Posts: 40
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I'd recommend getting it done - can be very ugly if it fails at high speed. The design of the original version isn't very clever, the replacemant part is much better. |
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9th Jan 2010 10:52pm |
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