Sorry to drag up an old thread but FISHA did you change your cooler in the end? And RICHCL do you have any pictures of your install at all? Also is the fan on the cooler, is that controlled by a thermostat?
Cheers
Jay

No not yet, still very much on the cards though. I'm concentrating on getting the rr through its next mot so need to do rear bushes and rear brake lines first.

Regardless , I'll be doing the coolant stat mod, need that engine temp down. Approached a local engineering company that can make something reasonably basic and cheap to hold the different stat. .

That got me wondering whether I would need to do the trans cooler mod. If the coolant runs cooler, it'll suck more heat out of the trans fluid, so additional cooler may not be needed. However, I'll need to check, the heat exchanger box for the trans fluid has a stat in it too. If thats set higher than coolant temp, then it wouldnt open early enough and hold the trans temp too high. Then there is the issue that I think the connectors on the hear exchanger are a bit leaky too... So it still looks Like I may still need to visit the trans cooler issue anyway.

Having read up a bit, I can go a few ways with it:

- replace heat exchanger ( simplest but depends on that stat temp )
- fit a p38 cooler ( but does cool at stand still )
- fit an aftermarket heat exchanger ( better connections and I can control trans temp via my own stat )

Still weighing up the options / feasibility V8 or else ...

I'll try and get pics, but my new oil cooler is buried inbetween the main engine radiator and large electric cooling fan.

No worries richl, thanks for both replies

Even sitting still, the P38 oil cooler would have air pulled across it by the engine fan.

I was out in the woods a couple weeks ago.
CRAWLING along at less than 5mph for extended periods, with some fairly dramatic uphills, too, so engine load was high.

Overheat light came on.
Shut engine off immediately.
Electric fans immediately came on!
YAY!
Worked just like it was supposed to work!

Waited about 15 minutes, turned off AC (didn't need it on anyways, it was 60F or less), continued on my merry way.

By default, the P38 AC is on all the time.
This ends up dumping a crap-load of heat right in front of the trans/engine oil coolers and the radiator. Jim
2000 NAS HSE
2005 NAS HSE

Interesting read this topic.
I have just taken on the joy of owning an L322 03 V8. Coming across from a P38 that I have had for 13 years.
Must say that the L322 seems to have a lot of pipe work under the hood.....way too much for reliability as far as I am concerned.
With an IR heat probe my P38 engine temp sits about 95c with an air temp of 34c the pan on the transmission runs at 75c.
Thats during normal driving/no trailer....I dont tow.
I think an air cooler makes a great deal of sense for your/my application.
I would suggest that the retro fitted cooler/air should be installed on the return line to the trans, that is after the OEM cooler/liquid.
Dont quote me on this but as far as I know the P38 trans runs pressures up to 150psi, so be careful with cooler selection.
I would be looking into the pressures that the L322 trans runs at. Both models are ZF. Apart from the diesel L322.