Hello Everybody

Introducing myself as a new forum member - Sam from Derbyshire. I picked up my third L322 this weekend a 07 3.6 TDV8 Vogue. She appears to have had a pretty pampered life - 115k miles, immaculate interior and very clean arches and sills. A couple of electrical things to sort (obviously!) - passenger heated seat and parking sensors. It even has a Venturecam!!!

Great to be here on this excellent forum.

Sam

Click image to enlarge

welcome Sam to the forum and wiki...  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Congratulations. 2012 Vogue TDV8 in Aintree green over sand

Welcome.

That looks nice and clean.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Hi All

I’m in the process of doing some underbody/rear arch rust protection and am considering some work on the upper tailgate also.

Question - is it worth my drilling holes into the bottom of the upper tailgate, to enable me to get some Lanoguard in there? Is this a job that others have done? If so, any advice or pointers would be much appreciated.

Many thanks.

Sam

No need to drill holes, which would probably promote more corrosion in any case, just remove the central number plate light / switch panel (a few torx screws) and you can spray inside the tailgate using a straw type attachment on your spray can / gun.

You may want to use a rust converter first (something like Dinitrol RC900) as there’s a high chance there’s corrosion inside and wait for the products you use to drip out the drain holes each side so you know you have good coverage, A warm day helps here too. Jonathan

2007 Defender 90 XS Hardtop

Great advice. I’ll do that. Many thanks!!!

Dynax S50 for cavities and Dynax UC (clear) or UB (brown) for underbody stuff is much better than Lanoguard. You can apply them with 600mm nozzles to get in all those nooks and crannies. S50 in particular is perfect for sills and inside subframe tubes.

Whilst they will both cover and stop rust spreading a good dose of rust converter is always best first as it changes the chemical composition of rust and neutralises it.

JCW wrote:

wait for the products you use to drip out the drain holes each side so you know you have good coverage, A warm day helps here too.

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Not sure how thick the cavity wax is, but the holes will just be a hole in the metal, so once it’s all set, just poke something up the hole if you think it’s going to be blocked. Doesn’t need too much thought, aside from what you’ve already considered, which is catching the drips !

I might machine two pieces of wood cut to the drain hole size and poke it in, before I do the cavity wax, I still cannot fathom out the purpose of the drain holes, I mean we are calling them "drain holes" for no apparent reason than that is what they look like to us, but I question the real purpose for them ?

I think they are actually drain holes for when the car was dipped in anti corrosion zinc phosphate solution at the factory. ---------------------------------
2008 L322 Supercharged
2007 Porsche 987 Boxster S
2024 BMW iX3

good thinking batman - yes that makes sense

pcourtney wrote:

JCW wrote:

wait for the products you use to drip out the drain holes each side so you know you have good coverage, A warm day helps here too.

I have sprayed Dinitrol RC900 rust converter into my tailgate ( I removed the tailgate lights to access the area ) , I had my lower tailgate open with old rags and towels placed on it to catch the drips coming out of the drain holes

Am about to do a second spray this afternoon, as it is a bit warmer

But a question, before I use the Dinitrol ML Brown cavity wax one evening this week, Thursday looks to be even warmer, surely the cavity wax will block the drain holes - will it not ?

And does anyone know what purpose the drain holes have, I cannot see the point of them, was it just a design error when they made the tailgates, or a carry on from previous models perhaps ?

How does water get in at the top of the tailgate to then drain out of the drain holes ?

Obviously I don't want to block the drain holes if they have a purpose, but then I have read on many forums that people have used cavity wax inside the tailgate after they used some rust converter.