Hi all, looking for help and opinions. 1st question, has anyone ever seen an adjustable rear control arm for a FFRR?
I got hold of a project that needed attention and have just put it through alignment after replacing most of the suspension components. The garage claimed not to be able to adjust toe on the rear, back into alignment. See attached report.
The car had been sitting on its nose on someone driveway for a year before I picked it up. Replaced both front air bags, compressor, valve blocks. Had that all working and riding correctly. Whilst I had everything apart, I did all of the bushes. As you can see the front is no problem. On the rear I replaced upper and lower control arms, upper and lower bushes in both original knuckles and both control rods. Subframe was displaced, not that I think that would have any affect anyway. All new eccentric bolts/washer fitted. All torqued up with hubs at normal ride height, not full weight on but hubs jacked up.
Any advice greatly appreciated.

What do you mean by the subframe was displaced? As the suspension is mounted to the subframe, the subframe must be correctly located.

A 'displaced subframe' would certainly throw off wheel alignment as it's measured relative to the body . Impact damage or worn mounts could do this. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

By displaced, I mean that I dropped it by a few inches to get access to the control arm link bolts.

I think the rear toe is adjusted using the eccentric headed bolt marked HB5 bottom left of this screenshot from the parts list. This lengthens or shortens the link rod which rotates the knuckle in the upper and lower bushes L405 2018 5.0 S/C

Cheers Wiltshire, yep this along with the link rod were replaced. On the limits of the eccentric washers it won't come into alignment.
Control arms were replaced with parts from a fairly reliable supplier over here (FCP Euro) similar to German Swedish back home. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/land-rove...escription
I think I might try ordering up a different set and see if there is anything in the dimensions.

I replaced mine with 'Lemforder' ones and the right wheel won't quite come into line.
I'm thinking of welding some extra material to the eccentric washers. Might be worth a try.

I have the same the nearside rear is slightly out has been for about 25k miles and no adverse wear showing on tyres nor on handling

If the total rear toe is within spec it will self centre with an automatic correction from the front axle albeit with the car body slightly off centre to the direction of travel. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Glad to report, found the problem and now it's all on the straight and narrow.

Click image to enlarge

I'm not 100% sure, as I've never had to touch toe on any of my L322's. It's always been camber adjustment following upper / lower hub knuckle changes.

But... I'm pretty sure those holes aren't meant to be slotted. Isn't the idea that the centreline of the bolt stays put and the eccentric washer part of it moves the forward tie rod in/out?

In a slotted hole, the bolt itself can move around, negating any adjustment gained from the washer. Has someone elongated those holes in order to get the rear toe into spec at some point in the cars past? 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
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Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

No, as the eccentric washer is attached to the head of the bolt and the groves cut into the shank of the bolt align the one under the washer, they turn in unison. As they turn, they act against the raised nodules either side of the washers. This then alters the distance from the fixed point (the nodule on the subframe) and the centre line of the bolt. So, the bolt moves along the slot. One revolution then starts the travel back along the slot.
The travel of the bolt then moves the toe link relative to the subframe and moving the toe angle of the knuckle in or out.

I have a video of just the bolt in the slot turning, without the toe link. But I don't think you can upload videos. 2011 L322 5.0L HSE & 2018 Discovery Sport 2.0L

Previous: 2003 Discovery 4.6 V8 SE / 1990 RR Classic 3.9 V8 Vogue / Series 2A 2.25 (X2 1965 & 1968)

OK, thanks, that makes sense. I stand corrected.

Glad you got this sorted  1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Cheer @D3Jon, me too it was doing my nut in.  2011 L322 5.0L HSE & 2018 Discovery Sport 2.0L

Previous: 2003 Discovery 4.6 V8 SE / 1990 RR Classic 3.9 V8 Vogue / Series 2A 2.25 (X2 1965 & 1968)