Don't think it will just fit, as the GM Ines have a round flange and the LR one has a hex flange.

Loads of GM Ones on the net, at least we now know it's called and "encoder ring" not a potentiometer! Google that and this company came up http://www.industrialencodersdirect.co.uk/ and I wonder if they might be any help.

Edit..... more googling, its a rotary shaft encoder. There are loads of companies which specialise in them for machinery sensors maybe an email to one of them will put it in the hands of an expert...

These guys seem to stock a wide range

http://www.encoders-uk.com There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

miggit wrote:

I'm wondering if it wont just fit.. it has the notch, but not the hex bit... but the hex bit looks to be raised so maybe the GM one will just fit

I don't think that anyone in the UK is going to answer the question.. as big engined GM 4x4's are like hens teeth over here... at least they sold them as the Holden down under. Best case is someone in the US has a crack at it.. those pots are only $39 new I bet that a S/H could be had for way less... or better still a duff unit from a garage just to see if it will fit

To quote someone who's trying to help I know it's not 100% correct... but it's 5000% cheaper than a LR stepper motor.

I did say beg steal or borrow... not shell out for a new one... there is every chance that it will fit.. then assuming that the resistance is the same it should work. It is a gamble.. and if you live in a country that doesn't have the GM 4x4's supplied to by GM, it could turnout to be a costly mistake. BUT if you live in a country where said part is available, through dealerships, and you can get hold of a comparison cheaply.. please do as you could become a real hero  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Have emailed encoders-uk with the part no let's see if they can find out if it is an off the shelf item. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

It is if you live in the States or Australia.... And can be had in the States for under $40... because the Americans would rather sell cars than stick them in a field.. their prices are a lot less than wot we suffer.. the spares prices are a reflection of this... cheap as chips

there are very few parts that are specially made for a new car now-a-days other than body panels etc.. but when it comes down to the mechanical side of things... there is a lot of assembling other peoples components to do what you want... If i'm not mistaken the Range Rover Classic 4 door locks were GM items and that was over 25 years ago... been going on for time.. the original Range Rover had a Buick engine......... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

If you look at the back of the GM one it is a different shape, it may well fit, not saying it won't just asking the question of the guys who supply this type of thing in all sorts of shapes and sizes

Nothing in it for me as mine has the MagnaSteyr box just trying to be helpful  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

I just think it's unlikely that a company will recommend something that isn't manufacturer spec... just in case it goes Pete Tong But I have been able to use lots of non land rover approved BMW parts on my car.. after all it was made by BMW.... It would appear that the hexagon boss is a Land Rover thing, and is the stumbling block.. but when you look at it, it is indexed by the notch in the shaft.. like the GM unit.. I don't know the origin of the transfer box... who makes it? Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

was made by a company called New Venture i think There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

So the plot thickens.... NV is a joint venture of the big 3 manufactures in the US... Ford, Chrysler and General Motors

Bearing in mind that this was a cost cutting exercise to reduce the cost of developing 4 wheel drive systems, is it not conceivable that the same bloody pot was used?... yes it was modded to make it look a bit different, but the guts will be the same, and the operation... unfortunately the Range Rover is a low volume car as far as the spares market is concerned, so the chances of an after market pot is remote, but that's not to say that a GM one couldn't be adapted to fit and work

I thought that I'd seen a similar transfer box in my travels... I did, I've got one in the Merc and one in the Jeep  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

My experience so far with this demon error. This is a shortish version. My 2003 T6 RR vogue broke down in Poland whilst on holiday (not this fault, burst air suspension bladder), thanks to RAC European breakdown cover it was taken to the nearest (120km) Land Rover dealership where it was repaired, and I assume they checked and cleared all faults as the drive home to the UK was superb, no faults and no problems. It continued to be fine until the onset of the much colder days here and basically, my battery gave up the ghost. So, after having jump started it a couple of times, (before a new battery arrived) I changed the battery. From that time on I started to get the ‘Transfer box Neutral’ message. Not a great problem and everything seemed to work fine. Then came the day I got the dreaded ‘Trans. Failsafe Prog’ message. Auto box worked fine but would not go into 5th gear so I left it for a few days whilst I tried to read every thread related to this on this forum, and as has been said by others RRPhil’s insight and advice is excellent. It gave me the incentive to try his suggestion(s). i.e. putting the fuse in slot 37, switch on switch off. I never changed the ratio though. Oh joy o bliss I thought when I took it for a run got up to 70mph, revs indicating to me that it had achieved 5th gear, and had no ding dings. That is until I neared home and slowed down to come off the dual carriageway, as I slowed and the beast changed down I got a ding, ‘Transfer box Neutral’. Fair enough I thought, perhaps it is because I never completed all the steps with the fuse 37 reset. So, next day, thought, ‘I’ll do the fuse trick again doing all the steps’. Well, did the first bit, put the fuse in, gear in neutral, switch on, and here I made what I think was my fatal mistake, I pushed the switch to engage low range without turning the ignition off and removing the fuse and low and behold in went into low range. I think I then tried putting it into high range, but that did not work, only then I realised I hadn’t turned the ignition off and removed the fuse. I am now stuck in low range. I have tried doing the reset as per fuse 37 again but so far no joy. I am thinking about getting under the beast, removing the transfer box shift motor and doing the mechanical set up as per RRPhil’s advice, but at 64 years of age I don’t really like the idea of crawling along on my back. So any alternate suggestions would be much appreciated.

As additional info, if I then try to change to high range the change light blinks, no sound comes from the shift motor, it then dings and comes up with the ‘Trans Failsafe message’ and stays locked in low range.
Prior to all this happening I had tried engaging low range, just to see how it worked, (this is my first RR) but it never did anything, I didn’t worry about it as it was very unlikely that I would off road or use low range.

Just for info., I recently bought a used 5HP24 transmission to re-manufacture and it came complete with the NV225 transfer box (including the shift motor). Obviously I can’t be sure that the transfer box was working perfectly when it was removed but I have rebuilt the transmission and it was in superb condition so I have no reason to believe that the transfer box is any different.

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

I have the trans failsafe (and now stuck in low range) on my 2003 RR, and looking through RRPhils narratives on the subject I actually had a go at removing the transfer shift motor to manually reset it into high range and this is where I got stuck. The cogged end of the lead screw was exposed and the missing spline was in the low range position (and turns no further clockwise). My question is, at this point do I turn it anticlockwise thus causing the part to come out and then push it back in again without it turning or is there something else I should be doing. If so what are the dangers of over doing it, as judging by the pictures RRPhil has put up showing its position relative to the ratio I would have to turn it anti-clockwise about 370 degrees.

The transfer motor works, I did test it before I put it back on. It is as if it will not turn anti-clockwise as even putting in fuse 37 does not seem to put it in neutral. Is it the ECU which controls which way the motor turns? As something must change the polarity of pins 9 and 10 for the motor to turn either clock or anti-clockwise.

any news on the potentiometer?

Unnecessary quote removed

I solved that problem by using a 12V supply with some rigged up leads to power the motor in the direction I wanted it to go, bolted it in place and used the 12V supply to rotate the transfer box shaft. It wasn't pretty but it worked.

Hello, firstly thanks for all of the advice from members which has been useful over the years, so just a little in return if I can help,
I had the dreaded Trans failsafe code keep pinging up and putting the car into limp mode. Worryingly the gearbox had just been replaced so it was a relief when diagnostics narrowed it down to either the Transfer motor or the ECU. I decided to replace the transfer box motor as most feedback pointed to that, its a very simple job. 3 bolts and the connector.

Landrover list pice was in the region of £1700 for the motor, after some searching I found a company who recondition or exchange your unit, website is [www.4x4lro.co.uk] and Spoke to Andy there. If you have a similar issue I can't rate him highly enough, very helpful on the phone before and after sale, and saving me in the region of £1300.
It is well worth calling Andy, a really nice chap on 07958 398652 if you have issues with your transfer motor.
I fitted the motor myself, very straightforward, and it has solved the issue.

Thanks again

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Welcome to the forum Ed. You may be interested in this, if you haven’t already seen it :

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic42967.html

Phil