Hi

My TD6 seems to have all its parts expiring at the same time. After a complete overhaul of the suspension systems not it wont start.
Had the same problem a month ago where the car broke down and the garage changed the in line pump and fuel filter. on getting it back although working it would struggle to start some times, and again broke down on a long trip. this time though it shows no sign of starting.

I had the choice to go home or the garage and the car is dead on the driveway-
The scanner come up with
Pre fuel pressure control and delivery fuel pressure monitoring.

Live data shows 103kpa on low pressure rail and 0 on high pressure.

I am suspecting the in tank pump has failed but would appreciate any advice

Regards

Not an expert here.... on my TD6, when my in line pump failed the AA man too the pipe off the fuel filter whilst I turned the key. That proved whether fuel was getting to the front. Would that not show if it's one of the pumps or nor?

A few years later mine gradually got worse starting which resulted in 2 leaky injectors being replaced. I was told it will still start fine if 1 is leaking.....

Has your starting issue been gradual or sudden? 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

It was sudden, we had just stopped at some services and then a mile down the road it cut out with a fuel injection system error. I had 1/4 tank and it went to the garage for the fuel filter and pump.
Again it broke down when driving- cut out with a fuel injection system error.

You should be able to hear if the in tank fuel pump is working as it'll prime for a few seconds with the ignition on.
Quick check on a suspected non-working in tank fuel pump is simply go and thump the tank while its supposed to be working (ignition on). The vibrations created is often enough to jar a stuck pump back into life although it's not a foolproof method.
If still no joy then you need to check to hear if the fuel pump relay is clicking in when it should (again it'll cycle on and off for a few seconds with ignition on).
If not then the fuse needs checking and the relay.
If that checks out then the wiring to the pump needs to be checked. It needs a working supply and a ground which can be checked with a test light or a meter at the pump.
Once that's all checked out and the pump is still not working then it needs a new pump.

^what he said

But to add... You have a starting fuel system and a running fuel system! High & low pressure... Will your car start using something like easy start? If it starts on easy start then runs all day until you shut it off, then won’t restart! You have a starting fuel pump issue...

If its visa versa, you have a running fuel pump issue...

Thanks for the replies. I'll get onto that tonight and see how she does

Just tried the relay and that works as I can hear the in line pump stop, next thing to try is the wiring for the in tank pump and the pump itself. Definitely not hearing any noisy coming from the tank area.

Most common failure is the fuel pump just in front of the near side rear wheel. Remove the cover and with the ignition on hit the pump with a spanner or light hammer


Link here for more information Click

It lives!

So after a few weeks of being busy at work I was able to work on the car this morning.

I was confident there was an issue from the tank side as I could hear the in line pump running for 2 + minutes with the ignition on. The relay powers the in line pump also so when I pulled that with the ignition on I could hear the in line pump cut out.

I purchased a replacement pump only from auto sensors for a TD6, and it was an SKV type typical for bmw's on eBay for £45.

I followed a YouTube video on the pump replacement:

The whole process took about 2 hours as I was being careful not to damage parts, the only point being I had to snap the nozzle from the old pump off as the tube would not come free. I then crushed the end of the nozzle in the tube and removed before cleaning any debris with HHS clean.

After this I cleaned the visible sludge from the pump before reassembly.

After clearing the fault codes it fired after 10 seconds cranking, and all pressures appear normal.

Thanks for all your replies

Any chance of a link for the pump that you used? Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

http://www.auto-sensors.co.uk/land-rover-r...1002-p.asp

Bookmarked Just in case  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!