Aplogies in advance!

I have a 2004 54 plate L322 3.0 TD6

about 2 years ago at 115,000 miles I had a judder and some vagueness like little lumps between 30-40mph.

Sure enough all the forums pointed towards TC failure so off it went to a recommended specialist. And it had fitted a new TC which I think was a recon unit. £1700 later the vibration had gone but I wasn't convinced it had gone away completely. Anyway they recommend a fluids change 6 months after so back it went complete fluid change.

I mentioned the issue, he drove it and, basically said " we know its not the TC" as that's been changed. He called someone at LR who said it could be MAF sensor or Throttle body???!!??

Anyway 12,000 miles later there is still a rumbling/hesitancy between 30-50mph.

I have heard that voltage can affect the gearbox operation and we do appear to have a drain on the battery as it needs charging when the weather gets damp every 6-8 weeks.

The car is only used for short runs so that may have something to do with it.

Anyway I thought I would put it out here and see if anyone else had a any post TC replacement issues similar.

Thanks in advance!

I replaced mine a few weeks ago and the whole shooting match has gone south http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic36451.html

It would appear that the TCC rumble is a sign that everything is knackered not just the TCC, and the whole gearbox is need of surgery Sorry to be bearer of bad news but on the bright side of things you haven't just had your gearbox rebuilt, badly, 18 months ago  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Are you saying you paid £1700 for a tc change recon unit?.

Mine's in at STA in Ayelsbury currently. £1800+VAT for full rebuild. Although also been told the output shaft to transfer box has stripped the splines so another 200 on top of that.

Yes it wasn't quite 1700.

Sounds silly but I would have thought if a gearbox was knackered generally problems would occur through all gears?

Wait till something goes wrong I guess, chasing problems just costs £1000's and doesn't always solve them.

miggit, it doesn't sound as bad as your experience the box seems faultless in comparison, its just this slight hesitancy and rumble?

Its been almost 2 years since the TC was fitted?

Your a lucky chap, or you like to live dangerously

Out of interest have you had the injectors serviced? only mine felt like the TCC had gone again last year but it turned out to be 2 of the injectors were dud, you might have a fuel fault and the gearbox is A OK  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Funny I rarely feel lucky but this L322 is concerned it has been great no real problems only 1 air spring in its life and this TC but..... all that can change quickly at this sort of mileage

In fairness I have chased small intermittent faults before and it always costs a lot. Having said that Gearbox failure on these old cars is often terminal.

Interesting on the injector, a mate popped it on his navcom checking the maf sensor and it didn't have any faults but I don't think the injectors have been changed in my ownership.

This is only a suggestion, but it might save you a heap and it wont do any harm..... I would look at giving it a good injector cleaner treatment and see if that makes things any better....... I had my box rebuilt and after a short while it developed the 'rumble' all be it very slight, after a few thousand miles. Having taken it back to the gearbox builders and no fault found, I just put it down to another bit of the car wearing out and lived with it.... last year my engine got harder and harder to start when it was hot, and eventually it f.u.b.a.r'd its'self and it turned out to be the injectors.... When I first took the car out after the injectors, I didn't feel any rumble at all

Now my way of thinking is duff injectors only really cause a missfire at lower revs, because my car ran like a scalded cat at higher revs, and at idol the engine is less than smooth to start with. So the only time that you will notice the injectors is 1000 to 2500 rpm........ BUT when in 1,2 or 3 the TCC is open and slipping so it absorbs all the missfire vibration, so the only time that it will be really noticeable is above 30 mph in 4 and 5, just the right speed to throw up the TCC rumble

Looking back on things now I do remember that the 'Rumble' disappeared around 53 /54 mph not 50... I now recon that it was the injectors slowly giving up the ghost and not the TCC  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Well, What a nice solution that would be. I have used the forte stuff on my 90 so I might give that a go.

What sort of cost/job is it to have the injectors checked?

The Bosch agent that I used charged £17 per injector to clean and test, and this was refundable against the cost of a rebuilt injector at £135.

You can do a leak back test on the injectors, but as my car had done around the 115K mark I just pulled them and had them cleaned.

Now not wanting to spoil the fun too much, I would suggest that you think about putting it in to a diesel injection specialist for diagnostics if the cleaner makes the slightest of differences. Only because the injectors can be an absolute pain in the butt to remove, I helped a friend do his and we had to get a specialist out the hydraulically evict 3 injectors from the head and from what I gather this is very common on the TD6 engine

There again if your feeling lucky and your handy with the spanners, it's not too hard a job to get at the injectors, and you'll soon know if they are stuck.... when I did my friends car we'd got the 3 easy injectors out in under an hour

Oh and it's worth putting some grease on your socket when your removing and replacing the inlet manifold nuts, under the rubber bungs

If you need the manual it's now available here http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic36759-15.html

Well worth downloading and saving for future use  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Top tips thanks very much

No problems Buddy

If you do download that manual it's the full version of Rave... covers the Defender as well

And I'm not sure if it's covered in the book or not, to save your self unnecessary brain aches and back.... put the car in to low mode, put the bonnet in to service mode (straight up) and then remove the airbox,,, that's the rubber seal at the rear of engine bay in front of battery, 2 nuts (13mm) one is next to the positive jumper terminal, then slide the airbox forward and up.... bit of a faff as the ABS block gets in the way a bit... but well worth it as all the engine is then reachable with ease...... unless your really little, and then a milk crate is a wonderful addition  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

just to add that the rave 'repair' manual has been added to the wiki... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Ok computer stupid here, I have just down loaded the link and it went into a unzip drive and I have saved onto my computer.

I know have a lot of files how do I view the manual?

Miggit I didn't know that so thanks for the heads up on service mode.