So you've established the problem isn't the battery, there is little point fitting further new batteries.

I would suggest there is something causing a constant drain on the battery, which would explain why the ctec isn't fully charging the battery (something is taking power from the battery as fast as the charger is putting it in, to test this disconnect the battery from the vehicle and charge it). Do all the interior lights go out when you shut the doors? (including the boot light), does the heater blower change speeds correctly? Have you got water in anything electrical?

Thanks for the suggestions.

Last night I pulled out the fuses for the blowers and removed the heating panel as they had been making a lot of noise when I unlocked the car. I have checked for all lights and the car shuts down properly after 20 minutes.

I put it on charge last night and left it for 15 hours - the reading on the C-Tek said it was full this morning. But... As soon as I disconnect the C-Tek from the battery, the car is completely dead. Flat as a pancake.

After 3 attempts it would now appear the only way I can drive the Range Rover is if I jump start it from another diesel car.

Going to book it into my indy and leave it with them. If they can't sort it she's got to go... Been stranded without a car for nearly 2 weeks now. 2002 Range Rover Td6 Vogue

Geis a shout if ye decide tae sell it

When you disconnected the Ctek did you check the battery voltage.
Where exactly are you connecting the Ctek to?
You say the car is dead as soon as you remove the Ctek, are you absolutely certain the battery is actually connected to the car.
When you disconnect the Ctek can ytou turn on the headlights?
My first inclination would be the battery isn't positively connected to the car at at least one terminal.
Have you checked the condition of the +ve jump post and the cable connection at the rear of it?
Have you checked both battery terminals are tight onto the battery posts?
Have you checked the battery earth cable is connected to the earth bolt in the battery compartment?
Where exactly are you connecting jump leads to on the car?

A thought, a battery cannot discharge instantly when you remove a battery charger, at least not without a great deal of smoke which I think you might notice.

Good call and probably the cause . Would have thought they had been checked already but easily overlooked .
My brain was still churning thoughts of a fried ecu or module shorting or maybe the starter shorting .

I suffered from all of this for a couple of weeks with my newly bought 2003 Diesel. My electrician and I finally traced it to the cooling fan.

I managed to get the car started again by taking off the battery leads and cleaning them (with a can of coke and a toothbrush!). I gave it a full charge overnight but after 2 days it's lost about 60% of its charge, so there is still something draining it slowly (although at least it's not switching on!).

I'm ordering a new FSR from Dan so we'll see if that helps...

I do notice that even if I turn off the fan when I leave the car, next time I turn it on it comes on at level 1, which is odd... 2002 Range Rover Td6 Vogue

As your FFRR is of the bmw era , the heater fan coming on next time you start is probably normal .
A failing fsr can cause the fan to fluctuate and make woop woop sounds . The fan should not fluctuate if you set a specific speed . It will vary if it is set to auto mode .

The problem could be a sticking relay somewhere .
I can give you contact details for a mobile auto electrician who often works on range rovers and he will find the problem for you .

CY wrote:

(with a can of coke and a toothbrush!).

I hope you used diet coke, our cars are fat enough.....  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I'd be inclined to go back and clean the battery posts and cable connections with emery paper, coke might work on coins but it's not much use on lead battery connections.
When I turn my fan off on leaving the car it stays off, it doesn't switch itself back on when turning the ignition back on.
Your FSR is probably faulty given it's age, they all seem to go eventually.
If you have a battery drain after replacing the FSR you really need to set about tracing the fault methodically by systematic fuse pulling, takes time but does work. You need an ammeter with a range up to 10A to do this.

Think the FSR may be goosed... Having got the car started this morning, I just drove 200 miles to Durham and the blower would not change settings regardless of what I dialled into the controls...

Interestingly, having played about with fuses recently, the rear blower is now permanently on full blast (so I have to keep the rear blower fuse removed). Is this a symptom of the FSR going, or is that a separate problem? 2002 Range Rover Td6 Vogue

Sounds like the front FSR is faulty.
The rear blower is controlled by a separate FSR operated by a turn wheel at the rear of the centre console.