Get it?

Found this link via the Defender forum, they are pricey but probably worth it in the end.

http://www.wrington.co.uk/landrover%20alloy%20wheel%20nuts.html Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

very nice and the ultimate nut [but a set of 20 stainless steel capped nuts are only £55.. ] ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Ooooh. They look good, and I do need to do something about my swollen nuts.

Just a shame they're so expensive.

Any guidance on torque settings etc., I wonder, as they're stainless?  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

I have been sorely tempted a couple of times but I just cant get over the price , probably completely justified but , well they are wheel nuts . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Crazy money  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

First thing I bought after I had my FFRR Expensive but good value for your money. In fact I bought these for my previous Disco 3 too

Highly recommended  Range Rover TdV8 Autobiography MY2010
Defender 110stw Td5 MY2006

I just replaced those that needed replacement, by that I mean those that wouldn't accept the right size socket easily. I did look at the Wrington ones but I would have needed a complete set to keep everything matching rather than the 10 I bought from Dan.
I think if I had needed just one or two more I would have got the complete set of solid stainless nuts as they actually seem like a great product - whats that saying "The quality stays with you long after the price is forgotten" and I think that would have applied in this case BUT they were almost 10 times the price/nut so that purchase price would have been remembered for quite a while  Geoff

Everybody shut up a little this thread just makes me want a set even more but now i have to post them to Oz .God knows what it's going to cost me now .  2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Just checked ,$552 . The Mrs is going to kill me  2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Following a problem yesterday with getting wheels off due to nut corrosion I asked the dealer whether 100% stainless would be better - answer probably not due to stainless against alloy effect. I see that some stainless nuts for Defenders are stated suitable for steel wheels only, not alloys, which might support that.

Any views? Only Range Rovers since 1988

dont normal nuts have a washer made of steel? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Thanks, I expect so, it seems mild steel with a stainless cover on the nut. I wonder what the downside of using all stainless rather than mainly mild steel would be? Could there be a different reaction with the wheel? (I remember the steel bolt/alloy wing reaction on my Classics leading to corrosion of the wings while the bolts were not affected)

At the moment the dealer suggestion is that the corroded/swollen nuts might qualify for a warranty claim, which would be a better short term solution, especially considering the cost of the stainless nuts. However longer term I would be interested to know whether stainless would be a better alternative, though I am now a bit wary, as I respect the judgement of the workshop foreman who gave the advice and also tend to stick with OE spec parts. Only Range Rovers since 1988

CS wrote:

Following a problem yesterday with getting wheels off due to nut corrosion I asked the dealer whether 100% stainless would be better - answer probably not due to stainless against alloy effect. I see that some stainless nuts for Defenders are stated suitable for steel wheels only, not alloys, which might support that.

Any views?

I searched on the topic of galvanic corrosion (as on Classic wings) and found the following comment on the Stainless Steel Information Center of the Speciality Steel Industry of North America site: "...if aluminium structural framing is used to support sheets of stainless steel and they are in direct contact with moisture present, the aluminium's corrosion rate can be accelerated". Moisture is certainly often present in Scotland...
There are some comments on other car sites along these lines too.
Q whether mild steel is better? Perhaps the mild steel corrodes first and that 'saves' the alloy. Only Range Rovers since 1988

Mild steel can get bi metallic corrosion with ally and they basically weld themselves together. I couldn't really say if it's better or worse than stainless and ally though.

The factory nuts have the washer on them (rather than just flanged nuts) so they crack off more easily.