Hi all!

Sorry to register then post asking for advice, but found this site over the weekend and looks awesome help! Ive had a pair of P38's for around 5 year. 1 standard and the other with Louis Vuitton leather, 22's, 8 Tv screens etc,(typical Essex type of car! but its time for a change.

Ive been a member of another RR site for a fair few years which was very helpful, but find alot more advice on here regarding my intensions and to be fair it seems to be a sore subject on the other site.

Ive got £10k to spend on a L322. The car is going to do around 10k miles a year, but for insurance etc has got to be diesel. Im pretty confident with a set of spanners and am looking to get one with the 2011-2012 look. Looks an awful lot of car for £10k.

Am really after any advice on peoples thoughts? Should i buy a £7k one and then pay the £3k conversion. Or buy the bits seperate and fit myself? To be honest i was thinking along the lines of buying a 2003ish thats already done as they are coming up around the 10k mark. My theory behind it is that if someone is going to do a £3k conversion then they have proberly looked after it?

Ive seen a few posts on here about people buying the bits and doing it themselves. Im gonna cost the parts ;0)

Ive heard the G/boxes are normally u/s after 100K mileage (which is the bracket im gonna fall into) so i will be looking for one thats been refurbed, but is there a certain year or model to look for? I.e do certain years update better than others?

I want it too look real standard, but other than the front end and rear lights, what else should i be looking at? Ive read posts of roof aerial, colour coded door handle covers, colour coded mirror covers, badges and heater control panel.

Im going to keep the car for around 5year so would like it to look right.

I have done a lot of homework, so please dont think im just throwing it out there but id really appreciate anyones advice.
Thanks in advance for any info, its really appreciated.
Hopefully i'll be able to do the same for others in the future

Cheers
Tel

Price up what you want to mod, see what you've got left and buy the best you can, personally I'd rather start with a standard car and do the mods myself to know they have been done properly,

IMHO Would be your own work and more satisfying... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Cheers Hayland

To be fair, 99% of the guys on the other site are insisting DONT buy a L322 as too many problems. Im thinking provided i do my homework first they cant all be bad! Still £10k after all. They look so much car for the money.

Im guessing im gonna get around a 2003-2003 ish so im thinking i have to change washer bottle and full monty. Im gonna spend a few days pricing what i can through Ebay and new etc.. I see the conversions are costing around £3k and done in a day.

Sounds poncy i know, but wanted to really bring it home "done" with a cover plate on it instead of bringing it home as a 2002, doing work and then having it look like a 2012.

Mind you if it is a 1-2 day job it wouldnt be an issue really i suppose.

Boydonegood wrote:

. My theory behind it is that if someone is going to do a £3k conversion then they have proberly looked after it?

My theory is that people who try to make an older car look like it's a newer car have spent all their money on shiny bling rather than on maintenance

Hmmmmm true maybe. I hadn't looked at it like that!
I'm gonna price the bits, but so far the list of part numbers is quite long!! Lol
I'm booking at it that I'm buying £7k car with £3k of bodywork done. As aposed to a £10k car, so I gotta appreciate it is still a 12 y/o car.

First welcome,
second, don't do it, you'll be hooked for life.
third, buying a six or 7k car and spending 3 k at least on plastic and wheels, etc. will leave you with a car that still might cost you another 3k on the maintanance and repair side.
Maybe it is not unwise to buy from a dealer with waranty.

And if you really want to gamble buy a car through the forum sorry guys, just joking.
Good luck with the search

I looked at a couple with conversions done and personally decided that investing more in the base vehicle was the sensible way to go.

10k would get you into a first facelift car, circa 2006 with lower miles, better infotainment etc. 4.2 Supercharged Vogue SE

Thanks for input guys! It's definitely making me stop and think!
I suppose a few things to consider are, is 130,000 miles (average) too high to spend £7-£8k on? Gearbox is going to have to have been replaced and good service history and it's still 12 year old.
I do really like the look of the converted ones, but doing it myself, with wheels is over the £3000 difference between buying it done (provided the converted one has good history average £10k)

Am I right in expecting 20mpg ish? Anything else other than gearbox?
Sorry for all the newbie questions
I think the presence of a "Fullfat" (still can't get over that, has got to be the ultimate way of describing them) on the road is awesome. But the 2011 are more so

Looks like things arnt gonna be as simple as I first thought! Lol


Tel

+1 re being a supporter of a warranty if you can qualify for one via buying from a dealer or buying yourself if the age/ mileage of the car allows(unless you're very handy with tools and/ or have the time to do so)... &

If buying stock and seeking a facelift upgrade, perhaps wise to live with the car first so as to ensure your £2 to £4k fund for facelifting is not more essentially required for unforeseen mechanical repairs and maintenance.

I think the bottom line is if the car doesn't come with a sound warranty and spending £10k might mean there is no "just in case something goes wrong reserve", then that's a high risk place to be with a RR.

Great great cars and as Robert says, very addictive, often illogically so

I'd buy a car without it, make sure it is sound by running it for a bit and then invest in a facelift if you want to. You may also be able to sell the parts you take off, and get some money back.

Mine is a 2003 with 126k on it now. Doesn't use any oil or water, and has warranty till November 2015. It was a 1 owner car and I did pay slightly more for it, but I like it.

That said, if you buy one with the conversion done, you won't have to pay for it, and you could be in a better position to sell on if you don't like it.

Depends which view you take. 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I had p38's for 10 years and was on another forum last December I bought my 2007 s/c and never looked back go for it at the very least go and drive a few and you will be sold.
As for conversions not my deal so can't advise either way good luck.

Personally i would go for the best base car you can, run it for a while as you may find hidden problems.

For 10k you will get a mid facelift car, unless you tow or do huge milage then try the petrol as they are smoother than the td6, and slightly cheaper plus a few less common issues to go wrong. Forget the 2010-2012 facelift until you know you have a solid car, they can chew up huge chunks of cash fast when they go wrong. Parts are fairly cheap for standard replacements such as suspension knuckles etc, but as you know they are heavy on transmissions and can incurr heavy bills fast.

Dont let me put you off, they are great bits of kit when they are working! There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

+1
look long and hard,dont jump, in spend a bit more on a low miler.service history is not everything but it helps
try to buy one of an enthusiast not some muppet who thinks he can afford to run one but cant maintain it on top.
even the best ones can go wrong, parts are expensive keep a good repair fund topped up(you may need it).
hold a few quid back for a good fault reader,
also run it for a while and sort out the inherited faults (it will have a few)
best of luck and welcome to the ff club(when it arrives)

this week(its only monday)
2x tires £250
head lamp ballast £125
76L LPG £43

roll on friday

nige

Thanks so much for all the replies and advice guys i really appreciate your help..

An aweful lot of people have advised that you need to keep £2000 in the bank for when it breaksdown. Really are they that unrealible? Are we really saying that they are that unrealiable that its nesassary? I do understand that if it breaksdown and you havent got the money you cant repair it, but is it really the need to keep ££££ in bank for when it does (because its that regular)?
If im honest, that would turn a 10k car into a 12k car, and i couldnt afford that. Although i do except all cars breakdown and they will need money spent on them but most people dont keep funds aside incase. So many people are telling me this, that its one of the biggest things im worried about.

Ive always brought "out of bed" motors, i.e lots of car for little money, and have done as much homework as i could before hand. Each one ive always known has always had its 1 major worry.. P38, Suspension = £££, Merc CL,ABC pump = £££... All that could lead to big money repairs. Luckly ive always got away with it and never had any major issues. Im handy with spanners so anything thats a nut and bolt repair id do myself but i guess im gonna get caught out one day.
I read everywhere on the G/Box worries, so ideally would like to get one where the box has been changed. Is there anything else major that i could check to help avoid £££?

On one of the other sites (that were advising 99% not to get one!) they have mentioned buying a seperate Warrenty. Id go with that if it were £300-£400 a year, but Warrenty Wise seem the cheapest and they are qouting in the £700 range. Add to that the insurance and its a killer.

The petrols are cheaper and so im told alot smoother. I dont do a million miles, but want something i "could" jump in and go Scotland and back without a morgage! Plus Dad gets me the odd drum of Diesel here and there. Will have to sit down and do my maths as to if im better saving £1500-£2000 on a petrol version and the difference in MPG between a Petrol and Diesel i suppose.

Reading back through it comes across as i want to run it on a budget.. Thats truely not the case. At present ive got a 02 CL600 Merc and an old Silver Spirit Roller, and i realise "if you cant buy the batteries, you shouldnt own the toys"., I just dont want to walk into a model that are all money pits. I can fund breakdowns and maintenence, but just not on a garenteed daily basis.

Really appreciate all your advice and thoughts guys. Its a massive help.

Cheers

Tel

They are not that bad, it's just at the age we are talking things may need to be replaced.

Mine is going to the garage to have the second door latch replacement in 12 months as now I can't open the drivers side rear door from outside. Had the passenger rear latch fail last year. Just into 3 figures to fix.

Small aluminium ring failed on a driveshaft, think it's the reluctor ring for abs. Can't get it on its own, 1 day off work, 6 days without car and over £600 all fixed, including low loader. It has another 3 left.......

Usual radiator and battery, had a blown front air bag - best to replace both. Over £700 fitted.

Won't have to replace them again, but you need to be ready if one goes.

The single biggest bit of advice from me, and it's not specifically rr related - I paid a bit more to the dealer when I bought mine and got 12 months warranty. At the end of the 12 months, I was given the option to renew at a cost of about £300. At the end of the 2nd year I took up an offer of a further 24 months cover with an increased labour rate, premium plus level cover and 10 months interest free for £450. If I sell the a car it can move warranty to next car or let new owner have it.

You can't ring up and buy this warranty, it has to be done when you initially buy the car. I didn't know this at the time. Just thought that after 12 months I'd be on my own.

So far they have done radiator, fuel pump, viscous fan, a door latch and soon another door latch.

There were other bits I can't remember. Said air bags was wear. Fair enough.

It's with auto protect.

Not saying it's the be all and end all, but a little bit of piece of mind. 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport